Tuesday, April 21, 2015
Wednesday, March 4, 2015
Six months ... a blink of the eye. I can't believe that amount of time has already passed since I lost my little brother. I love him, miss him and wish he was still here. Yet I know all is well with him, that he is not far from here, and that he is watching over us.
John Keets argued that "Nothing becomes real 'til it is experienced." It's an unfortunate reality (unfortunate because it's uncomfortable and not easy), but it's also a good one that helps us learn, grow, and become better people. And becoming better people is an object of our existence.
Roger loved as was really talented at capturing the ocean. Here is one of his images.While the separation from loved ones is inherently difficult, I know that it's a part of life. Life is short as well. So short that by the time we blink a few times, see a few things and do a few things, it is over. All that matters by that point is who we've been to others and what we've become. At that day I hope I will have lived better, and become a better person, in his honor.
'Ofa lahi atu Roger. Ke tau toe fe'iloaki i hevani.
Thursday, February 19, 2015
Live Within. Within Films.Being in Cali for these past months has been fun. Different as well. It definitely wasn't expected. I suppose sometimes life is like that.
My good friend Eric Schnitzler decided to make a pit stop here for a week before heading over to the Big Island. It's always nice to see good friends that you only get to see, at most, once a year. Eric is definitely one of the most talented filmers and video editors in bodyboarding. He put out a couple films - The Drift and Within - on DVD years ago, but he is most renowned for revealing the raw surf talent in Tahiti through his Within webcasts.
In a world that goes with the grain, his style both as a person and in his editing goes against it. While the rest of this sport is infatuated with the Aussie-centric style of waveriding, with their bleached hair, tight jeans, and indie soundtracks, Eric exposes the underground talent in bodyboarding, be whatever that entails. Of course, in doing that there has naturally been backlash from those that would rather leave the stones unturned in order to keep the spotlight directed at themselves. But truth is truth and someone has to be the man in the cape, the bearer of bad news ... or good news?
That much said, we linked up with a little bit of swell while he was here. Little bit of swell translates into a lot of swell by California standards. It wasn't pumping but was fun. And we were on it as much as we could.
The first couple days we hung around and filmed in the Seal Beach and the OC area, while the last day we ventured around LA and eventually ended up in Oxnard. Cool thing was that the winds were good on the latter day. Santa Ana winds were howling. While we didn't surf a whole lot, we did do a lot of spot checking, venturing around, and talking story along the way. Good adventures!
Myself in a bowl at Seal Beach. Frame by Within Films.
Linked up with friend Justin Enright at Seal.
Nainoa Steward invert in south OC. Frame by Within Films.
Whale scooping into one in south OC. Frame by Within Films.Eric, Stickney and his family, Chantony and I hung around south OC on his last day. We dug out one of the rivers, rode the standing wave, and played in the sandbar right in front of were the river drained out for a half hour. Surf wasn't amazing or anything, but new things, new experiences in new places always gets a thumbs up in my book.
Stickney getting a cool angle of me slippin' into one.Bon Voyage to Within's main man! Give his Facebook page a follow - Within Films
Saturday, December 27, 2014
Oxnard Shores. Photo by Warren Anderson.The day after Christmas was such a fun day surf-wise. Blake and I started out at Silver Strand, which was so fun on Christmas, but it was a tad bit smaller and lot more crowded. After about an hour, Blake, Warren, Speedy, Alex, Jeff, Matt, Joe, and I headed over to Oxnard Shores to give it a look. We didn't expect much but we figured there was nothing to lose.
The shorebreak looked really fun, so we all headed out. I took my GoPro at first to shoot the boys. Then it turned on. Right as I switched out the camera for the board, I saw Warren snag a beautiful one. It was a barrel invert on a left going against the grain of the swell.
An empty courtesy of moi.
Alex Tanguy before I swapped out my GoPro for my board.
The off shores made it all look so magical, especially with the rising tide. We all surfed until the icy water and freezing Santa Ana winds got to us.
Sometimes things just come together. Photo by Warren Anderson.
Speedy in a thick one. Photo by Warren Anderson.
First frame of me. Photo by Warren Anderson.
Second frame of me. Photo by Warren Anderson.
Scott Aichner in a nugget at home. Photo by Warren Anderson.
It was such an amazing, unexpected morning of surf. Unbelievable, actually! Sometimes it pays off to think outside the box and head over to somewhere you've never surfed before.
I need to track down more photos of the boys. In the meantime, here is what I have on file.
Thursday, December 18, 2014
Los Angeles ... not the place that naturally comes to mind when one thinks about good surf. Although, it does harness a lot of potential with the right set of circumstances. And it just happens that I was able to tap into some of that yesterday.
About four years ago my friend Nico took me to the jetty, where we scored it with friends Bob and John Kithcart. We scored it so good that I've been itching to follow up with it on an even better day. And, as my luck would have it, that happened yesterday.
I strolled up first thing in the morning, and it was noticeably bigger than I've seen California since we've been here. As a matter of fact, it was bombing by Cali standards. Solid five foot Hawaiian and really consistent.
I was one of the first ones to paddle out. It was overcast, drizzly, and probably not too inviting for most people. Perfect for me because I was itching for some raw power in the ocean. It feels good to interact with it.
My first wave was one of the ones that swung wide. Luckily I was positioned a bit off the Jetty, so I snagged it. It was a good barrel. Kind of a blessing since I didn't have a leash.
The rest of the morning, even though it started to get a little packed, was a lot of fun. I sat wide and, consequently, snagged a lot of waves. Plenty of ramps and big barrels. It was really powerful, and the sets were a good ten waves long. That meant you had to work and earn everything. That is always good.
Dropping in. Photo by Brad Jacobson.
A smaller but nice looking barrel. Photo by Brad Jacobson.
A rollo. Photo by Brad Jacobson.
Bob Kithcart paddled out towards the end of my session. I would have stayed out longer with him, but I was worn out from ocean slapping me around for the past four hours. Later on, Bob mentioned that a photography named Brad Jacobson snapped a few images of me towards the end of my session. Tim Tindall snapped one of an invert I did earlier in the session. Not my best waves, but since I didn't expect anything then it was a treat to have a few recuerdos to look back and reminisce this day.
Thursday, November 20, 2014
My boy Morgan Halas just dropped a cool edit from his summer in Tahiti. It's been nice watching him progress as a wave rider ... and his month or two in French Polynesia have only pushed his riding that much further. Click and watch!
Tuesday, November 18, 2014
Kaleo Delatori pieced together this edit entitled "Summa" from this past summer in Maui and late summer in California featuring Nainoa Steward, Bryce Jacinto, Jonathan Cacal, Noah Clemens, Chris Taloa, Kaleo himself, and somehow a clip of myself. Click and watch!