FA-real.

Etiquette.

2012-02-12T10:15:00.001-10:00

Earlier this season at V-Land I realized something about proper wave etiquette - few people have it. It's baffling how out of touch people can be when it comes to catching and riding waves. Which translates to me that they are out of touch with themselves. If they are out of touch with themselves then its tough to be in touch with other people they interact with.

The ocean is a gift meant for everyone. It serves different purposes: food, recreation, bathing, healing, spiritual, etc. That's not where the problem lies, though. The problem I get frustrated with is the negative motives people have when they enter the water, especially wave ettiquette. For example, if you over fish you tilt the food source off balance. If you are selfish when you ride waves (or just merely oblivious) then you tilt the lineup off balance. You cannot fully appreciate and enjoy the gift unless you help it maintain its balance.

So wherein lies the perfect balance in the lineup?

Honestly, I don't know the perfect balance because wave etiquette is far more complicated than it appears on the surface. It's not just about being the furthest one out, the one sitting deepest, the one paddling for the wave first, not dropping in on anyone, taking or waiting your turn, what type of board you ride, putting in your time at a spot, senority, avoiding confrontation,... whatever. It's a hodge podge of it all. Even then, when all is said and done, it all falls victim to reality and what actually happens in the lineup.

I see kids dropping in on Uncles out at V-Land and then mouthing off to them. Back in the day (and it really wasn't that long ago), you did that and you'd get blasted in the mouth and sent home. For how off the old days might seem to some, I argue today is far more bizarre and off than ever before. Doesn't mean it was right... just means it made more sense. I'd rather see order with the sword in the lineup than disarray. Of course, the solution lies somewhere in between.

It's for each person to search and find. Fortunately, it's a one size fits all solution.

In conclusion, I just ask people to be respectful, less selfish, and be mindful of other people trying to enjoy the ocean. I would ask people to see past the animosity of which toy we choose to play with in order to ride waves. I would ask a lot of the people up at Sunset to go get a job, but I guess that's what happens when you're complacent and rely on trust funds and parents to make it through the day. Lastly, just let go of the ego that justifies doing stupid things in the ocean that belongs to everyone.

William Kaai advances to DK event at Pipeline.

2012-02-11T21:45:00.024-10:00

Today was the trials for the IBA Pipe Pro event. The trials were held, ironically, at Half Point, Sandy Beach. The waves were, evidenced by what I heard and what you will see in the edit, pretty horrendous. Then again, to catch Half Point at its finnest (all time, so to speak) is sort of a miracle in itself.

A few of my friends were there duking it out to make it into the Men's and DK event. Some of them didn't advance on into Pipe, but a few of them did. One of which is Hau'ula's very own William "Braddah Willz" Ka'ai.

I know it was on his mind since last year to get to the Pipe event, so I'm stoked to see Will in it this year. That means that two riders from KBB are in the Pipe event: Micah and Will. So that gives us even more the reason to go out and support da braddaz for the event!

Sully charges harder than you.

2012-02-10T17:32:00.004-10:00

I shot up North during my lunch break Friday to get a few at Pipe. Of course, beforehand I knew it was going to crowded. The whole bodyboarding world is in town, which doesn't bother me so much because that means a get to see a lot of friends from around the world, so it's even thicker than usual. It was a fun little session. I managed to catch four or so decent waves in the hour, which is a pretty good ratio (1 wave/15 minutes) during this time of year.

Back to my point, I ran into some friends out in the line-up. One of them being Glen Sullivan from Australia. Not only does he charge harder than pretty much anyone else, but he's just one cool braddah. Reminds me of this quick edit I had seen of him charging this mutant of a wave back at home (if you can even call it a wave). Check it out!

Glen Sullivan Kiama Bommie. from Glen Sullivan on Vimeo.

Feasty - In Between.

2012-02-06T15:30:00.001-10:00

Kim Feast just released the full length of his video entitled, In Between, on YouTube. In Between follows Kim around his home breaks and adventures around the world. For those that don't know about Kim, he's dk charger from the west coast of Australia. He grew up right in front of the famed North Point.

The Other Side Can Be So Dreamy Sometimes.

2012-01-28T21:00:00.044-10:00

While the North Shore is a seven mile miracle, there are plenty of days when it just seems like everything works against it. Either the swell direction is off, it's too small, it's too big, the sand is messed up, the winds are bad, or my least favorite ... it's too crowded. Today was too big. Well, the winds were off as well.

I was about to just call it a day and cruise at home, but something inside me urged me to the other side. I couldn't shake it. Plus I have this new GoPro 2 that needed use. So I jumped in my car and headed to the other side.

My first glimpse was of some swell but funky, wobbly surf. I was kind of bumbing, especially since it's such a journey to over there. So I pressed the peddle and proceeded on. As I reached Pray for Sex, my day dreams of glassy barrels were becoming more and more unlikely. It was windy. Then I rolled up to my destination to behold exactly what I was looking for.

It was head high and sheet glass. Only one guy out right where I wanted to test my GoPro. Not bad. I didn't mind shooting one other person. Actually, it'd keep me sane out there. I made a call to Pez to come out, and he was stoked on the idea.

I suited up and jumped in the water only to have that one guy go in. Nice. Solo. Empty waves slamming onto the sandstone reef. Okay!

One of the few gems I captured with the 10fps on the GoPro 2.

I shot about 500 photos and then noticed a few guys trotting onto the beach. It was Robbie Crawford, Joe Engel, and Fred Booth. Sick! I waved but they didn't recognize me until Robbie and Joe paddled out to where I was. Robbie told me to grab my board, and I couldn't decline.

For those of you that don't know, Robbie has become somewhat of a GoPro photo maestro this past year. He has, in a big way, made the GoPro photo taking a thing.

As I reached my car, Pez walks up and is excited at the potential. I then run into Maurice, who had been shooting down the beach the whole time. Kind of funny and ironic. He told me to head down the beach to shoot with him. Shoots! I can do that. Wade Asato the passed by, and I invited him to head down there as well.

I pull off my suit, put on my shorts, grab my board and fins, and head to the beach. I jump in with Robbie and Joe, but only to see Maurice jumping in already. I told Robbie I was going to head down to where Maurice was. We all paddled down there.

Robbie Crawford capturing Maurice and I linking up.

The sandbar over here was insane. The weather was pristine ... absolutely perfect! Sunny, clear skies, and hot outside. Every few minutes a perfect one lined up. Wade and I spent the next 45 minutes to an hour linking up with Maurice, Robbie, and Fred. It was exciting, to say the least. Once Maurice headed in, I stayed out to work with Robbie and Fred for a half an hour more. It was small kine hectic pulling into those waves, but most definitely well worth it.

Fred Booth capturing Robbie and I linking up. There are some big plans for the photo. I hope it turns out as well as we anticipate!

Unfortunately, the good times had to come to a close for me. I had to meet up with Elliot and Jacob in Waikele to work on some things for Custom X at 2:30pm. I said my goodbyes and thank you's to Robbie and Fred, their wives, and Pez.

Seriously, it was well unexpected but such a gratifying day today. The other side can be so dreamy sometimes.

There are a lot of good shots and clips from this session. Some of them are being saved for magazines and media. So more to come!

GoPro or Go Home Bro-dy.

2012-01-25T18:03:00.027-10:00

Thanks to Lindsay's reference, for Christmas my parents got me a GoPro Hero HD 2. It wasn't until last week that I was actually able to use it in the water. After a long morning at this one shorebreak, I found myself completely hooked. These are the reasons:

Numero uno: It's much lighter and easy to move around with a GoPro in hand as opposed to heavy housing with camera body and lens.

Numero dos: If something happens to my GoPro I don't have to commit harry carry.

Numero tres: It shoots a 10 frame burst in one second. The files are pretty large (4.5MB, give or take) and 11megapixels.

Numero cuatro: It tests my knowledge of waves and helps me understand (even more than before) the art of being in the spot.

Numero cinco: It's difficult. It's a thrill to see if you can get the shot.

Below are shots from each of my first three days using the GoPro. Hopefully I can eventually win the GoPro photo of the day. That's my goal!

First day.

Second day.

Third day.

Country Livin.

2012-01-24T00:14:00.000-10:00

This edit was done by one of my favorite professional bodyboarders growing up, Fred Booth. Fred has since transitioned and polished his skill on the standup surf board, and he now lifeguards on the North Shore of Oahu. Not to mention, he owns a local clothing brand known as Paulele. This edit, in my opinion, epitomizes the feel, mellow lifestyle, and the aloha that should be felt living in the country of Hawaii. Enjoy!

Saturday... it's a Saturday.

2012-01-21T21:00:00.033-10:00

You know, I hate to admit it but the ocean consumes my life sometimes. Not that other things aren't more important, but there is just something about being in the water (or even just around it) that has me completely addicted. With work and the business of life, I dream of those magical Saturdays when the surf, sun, and schedule align themselves in perfect sync. This was such a day.

Wade Asato pulling into a nice one earlier in the day.

Nicholas Seymour with a flip. (p) Morgan Halas

I didn't even get off to an early start. I went to the temple for the first part of the early morning which put me out North by 9AM. The surf at OTW wasn't all too fantastic. The winds were kind of thrashing it a little. But the swell was really west, the tide was on its way up, and I had a good feeling about Insanities come that time.

So instead of just jumping in and using up all of energy, we drove around and checked spots for a little bit. Even grabbed something to eat at Foodland. By the time we got back, it was starting to do its thing. Nice!

I paddled straight out to Insanities. Wasn't picking off the good ones, though. My wave selection was definitely off. But Derek, Shane, and Mark Balasbas were on point. I paddled over to OTW and caught a decent one. Jacob VanderVelde, though, was holding it down out there. I saw him catch a really deep one and get a few ramps.

Derek Miyashiro showing his prowess. (p) Morgan Halas

I paddled back to Insanities and it was definitely doing its thing. Maurice had made his way back out to shoot da boys. Everyone was catching some mean ones. I linked up a really solid one with Maurice. I guess he sent it in to the news and Guy Hagi ran it that evening. Shoots. I'll take that.

That wave Maurice and I linked up on. (p) Morgan Halas

Greeting Kevin on the beach. (p) Morgan Halas

Time started weeding everyone out until it was basically Shane, Morgan, Joe, and myself. Maria shot photos from the beach. We were trading waves off for the good part of an hour or longer. I saw Morgan, who isn't too familiar with the spot quite yet, nail down a long barrel. Joe was DK-ing up a storm, and Shane was holding down in good form like always.

Joe scooping into a ledgy little left. (p) Maria

Morgan with that one I was talking about. (p) Maria

Towards the end of the session I caught what became the wave of the day for me. I pulled into one that I back doored to have it push me into another section and came out with the spit. It was really long for out there. When I came out I couldn't help but laugh. It made my day.

The wave. (p) Maria

By the time we got out, the sun had drained all my energy. It was a beautiful Saturday on the North Shore of Oahu.

New Year. Better Style.

2012-01-08T18:02:00.040-10:00

New Year's resolutions, in my opinion, can be cheap commitments. Every December you start hearing all these non-sense cries about this and that, but in the end most people don't really want to change anything. Actually, I'm being a bit cynical. Maybe they do but don't know how or don't have the dedication. Of course, I applaud those who actually do live out their resolutions. I even further applaud those who don't wait for January to finally curb procrastination and take charge of their lives. Such things merit applause.

Now, to my resolutions [drum roll] ... they are many. Some I'm enthused about because they are improvements on positive things that I've witnessed work in my life, some I'm frustrated with because I haven't given them the proper attention and priority earlier. Overall, though, I see my biggest improvement being the art of planning ahead.

Planning is, by nature, something that comes difficult to me. I wish it weren't but it is. I've always been one of those on a whim, capricious types that just goes wherever life appeals best at the time. On one hand, I see how it's a good thing. On the other, I see how it curtails my potential. For that reason it's my main focus for 2012.

It's a new year, and I'm planning it out ... with a better style.

Season's Greetings | PHASE III | OC.

2012-01-08T17:56:00.054-10:00

An air forward I did. Landed and almost went into the pier pillons. (p) Joshua Shelly

Since Friday was the big day, literally speaking, for theswell to arrive, we rested up all Thursday. Waking up and the crack of dawn, wedrove down to Newport Beach to check one the jetties before heading up thecoast to Seal Beach. The reason we drove this route was because I had a hunch.One that proved to be prove itself true.

About seven years ago, on a trip up to Cali during Decemberto catch a cruise with my mom’s side of the family down to Mexico, I happenedto catch that big west of ’05. I surfed my brains out at one of the NewportBeach jetties. Seven hours to be exact. It was glassy, warm, barreling, rampingleft and right, and I was by myself for pretty much all of it. One of my bestsessions of my life to date. So with added abilities, I was hoping forsomething magical out there this swell.

An actual photo from that majestical day in '05. I snapped this after surfing for seven hours or so. This wasn't even a set wave either.

We checked it early, and the tide was far too high. I knewthat beforehand, but I wanted to test my hunch. I figured we could head up toSeal and then bounce back as the tide began dropping. Plus, I had told a wholebunch of people I’d meet them up there.

The drive up was eye candy. That Huntington Beach stretchwas baffling. With the crisp glass and swell in the water, it was obvious thatswell was in town. It looked so magical. It’s a miracle we didn’t crash thetruck because our eyes were glued to the ocean.

I didn’t even check the surf at Seal. I knew that was whereI was going to surf the morning. I parked the truck, paid the dues at themeter, suited up and gave Roger a quick tutorial off the place. Ran up the bermon the beach, said some hellos, and jumped in the water.

Empty. (p) Roger Fa

I slid into one right off the bat. Mostly to get my bloodflowing. After that I had two things on my mind: The pier bowl and the leftthat goes into the pier.

Yours truly. (p) Greg Nielsen

My first wave this morning. (p) Roger Fa

Different angle (flipped) from Alessandro Masciotti.

While there was a lot of sitting, mostly due to the swelland tide, I was able to pick off some nice ones. Nothing too perfect, butdefinitely some heavy little ones. My hat goes off to Adam Dumas, Bud Miyamoto,and Dillon Fowler, though. All three put on a clinic over by the pier. It wasamazing to see that display of dropknee riding.

Good friend Adam Dumas holding it down by the pier. (p) Roger Fa

Bud Miyamoto traveling backside through this perfect one. He made it, too! (p) Roger Fa

Ryan Heimple in a smooth one. (p) Roger Fa

Whale showing some skills toward the pier. (p) Roger Fa

Unknown handling the backwash (p) Roger Fa

Even though the waits were long, I managed to get a couplelittle ramps—invert and air forward. Josh Shelly was linking up with goods bythe pier. Jeremy “JP” Phillips and Alex Verharst as well. Meanwhile, Roger wasmoving up and down the beach, and he even walked up to the pier to document theaction. I saw quite a few familiar faces out in the water, which is alwayscool.

JP getting an interesting pov of me dropping into one in front of Josh. (p) Jeremy Phillips

Stacking up small kine. (p) Roger Fa

A little invert I got by the pier. (p) Roger Fa

Try'n fo scoop one. (p) Jordan Anast

Despite the fact that it was pretty crowded, it was rad tosee that it was all bodyboarders. It gets me excited to see bodyboarding infull effect in California.

After a while, I had to get out because of the cold. Ishowered off, changed, and talked story with a few people in the parking lot.We were destined for the jetties in Newport, but not until after eating someBurrito Jr. (which I think is the name) right across the street.

For some odd reason, I felt the need to shine the jetties(regardless of my instinct to go there) and head up north to this wedge Iscored with my friends Nico and Robert a couple years prior. So we were off.

Upon arriving, it was obviously a lot bigger than I hadsurfed it before. Too big, actually. Like get mangled pretty bad hurt. We shotsome photos and threw in the towel there. I still had Newport on my mind, so weheaded back that way.

Unfortunately, upon arriving in Newport there was only aboutan hour of light left. Which gave Roger such a short window to shoot. On top ofthat, this fog had rolled in so it was worthless for Roger to even pull out thecamera. I headed out anyways. Man, was it worth it.

It was good, to say the least. Like head high to a couplefeet over head but peaky and barreling. I ran into Murphy Bartling and MaxRussel out there. We traded waves for the remaining sunlight. I caught a fewreally good drainers and even a ramp or two. One of them I had to have been inthe barrel for six seconds or longer. Unreal.

Actually, one from the next day. You can see the potential-ish. (p) Roger Fa

I got out after sunset only to head back to the house tosome really good pizza from this place called Petrillo’s. It was a good day. Along but really good one.

END PHASE III.

Season's Greetings | PHASE II | Up North.

2012-01-04T23:00:00.009-10:00

So the New Year is coming to town—2012! While part of me iskind of scared of it, probably because I turn 30 at the end of this New Year, Ican’t do anything to stop it. So I might as well embrace it, and embrace I am.

To add a little more context to what I’ll be covering in theblurb, the Pacific had started to wake up and the Cali coast was looking tofinally get back to back sizeable swells for this first time this season. Thefirst swell was to hit Tuesday and Wednesday, and the second one was to hitFriday into Saturday. My original plan was to leave Wednesday back home toOahu, but there was no way I was going to miss out on this opportunity. Since mylittle brother was in town, and he was more than willing to document all theaction, I switched my flight to Sunday afternoon to cover my bases.

I didn’t spend New Year’s eve dancing or staying up lateinto the wee hours of the morning. I didn’t even hoot and holler when the handof the clock chimed 12am. On the contrary, the cross over to the new year wasabout as quiet as a crickets. I actually went to bed a decent hour and woke upearly the next morning to go to church. That evening I met up with a fewfriends – Natalie, Emily, Robin, and some others – in Santa Monica. That wascool.

The next day, Monday, we spent lounging around. I went andlifted weights a little bit and got some Mexican food for an early dinner. Man,Mexican food is the best food that exists. While I like Tongan food and whatnot, like Lupulu, nothing compares. Then we left to stay up and Blake’s houseso that we would be on scene for the next couple days.

The next morning, some of the boys called and gave me theearly report that the swell had not quite filled in but that the buoys were up.That meant I could sleep in an hour more before jumping out in the water. Whenwe all arrived at the spot, it was apparent that the swell was up. It was thebiggest surf I’d seen in Cali the whole trip. Thomas Pagano was already in thewater.

The scene (p) Roger Fa

Thomas lining one up (p) Roger Fa

Yours truly with a little ramp (p) Roger Fa

The place is pretty heavy (p) Roger Fa

Air dropping (p) Roger Fa

Cory dipping into one (p) Roger Fa

I suited up in a flash and jumped in. Man, I’m glad I hadgotten a 4/3 since my last little stint in the water. While it was still cold,it was now much more bearable. Thomas and I shared waves for a while before oneof the groms from Carpinteria – Cory – showed up. The place was kind of tricky.Kind of a vertical angled wedge, but when you connected one you could launchit. Heavy, too.

Jacob Reeve throwing some rail into this reverse (p) Roger Fa

About an hour into the session, Jacob Reeve – legend and oneof Cali’s best bodyboarders of all-time – paddled out and demonstrated hislocal knowledge of the spot. It was cool to finally meet him. Really humble andjust good people. Ryan Heimple also paddled out.

With the dropping tide and sand, the spot became more of abackwash. Actually, kind of similar to our spot on the east side except for thefact that you couldn’t really ride the wave out on this tide here. I was ableto link up a few ramps, which was fun. After a dozen or so, though, I had tothrow in the towel because the water was getting to me.

If you know, then you'll see the similarities (p) Roger Fa

The winds never really turned on, but this ended up beingthe day for me. I was definitely burnt out. Meanwhile, Josh and Cory went upnorth to shoot at this one shorebreak. We took Blake, Megan, and Adeline outfor fish tacos on Seaward. This one spot has some incredible fish tacos. Itmakes me wonder why no one on Oahu can figure out how to do it, especiallysince there is such could fish there. Baffled.

The next morning it the surf was much smaller than theprevious days. We ventured up to Emma Wood, which was deceptively bad. What Imean by that is it looked really fun and rippable, but ended up being weak andnot so rippable. Thomas, Josh the grom, and myself only lasted so long asJoshua and Roger shot photos from the beach.

We then headed back down to the spot we surfed yesterdayonly to be disappointed. It was not only on the small side but wasn’t linkingup right. Ryan had gotten a little reverse 360 attempt and Thomas threw a nicesnap on one, so I paddled out to check it out anyways. Got one kind of fun one,but that was it. Everyone headed in.

The one and only decent one I caught this morning (p) Roger Fa

We rapped in the parking lot for a little bit, and Josh saidthat Ryan was on his way back home to Zuma and would give us an update onwhether it was worth it to go down there. By this point, Rodge and I werepooped. We went back to Blake’s house and lounged for a bit. About an hourlater, Josh had gotten word from Ryan that it was pretty epic down there atZuma. So we said our good byes to Blake, Megan, and Adeline, and were off.

As we arrived in Zuma, there was no doubting Ryan’s report.There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, the winds were non-existent, and the surf washead high on the sets and roping down the coast. It was kind of abnormal ofthis time of year, people said. It was so hot outside I wished I had shorts towear in the water instead of the 4/3. Of course, the water temps were stillfrigid.

The scene at Zuma (p) Roger Fa

Second evidence (p) Roger Fa

Third is a charm (p) Roger Fa

Ryan, Jason, and myself jumped out at Zuma to some slabbing,crystal green shorebreak. Joshua was shooting. We traded waves so everyone hada chance to link up with Josh. It was so beautiful out in the water. It was soawesome to see the waves breaking down the coast to where you were. I wish Ihad either had a housing with a long lens to shoot up the coast or my new GoPro.

Jason sliding into one (p) Roger Fa

Ryan and Joshua making a connection (p) Roger Fa

My first one (p) Roger Fa

One of the magical ones that lined up (p) Roger Fa

After that session we all talked story by the cars as thesun escaped on the horizon. It was a wonderful two days of adventuring thisstretch of coastline. Especially since it was with family and friends. It’stimes like these that you wish you could freeze, sit and experience over andover again. Unfortunately, time doesn’t work that way.

For more photos by Roger Fa, head to rajahdatphoto.com!

END PHASE 2.

Clark Little.

2012-01-02T21:24:00.038-10:00

Clark Little is one of those watermen that has taken a passion for riding waves, especially the shorebreaks of the North Shore, and made it into living by documenting them. It is precisely there, though, where his story differs much from the rest. He is unique because of his "think out the box" approach to surfing... taking refuge where other surfers would not and still do not. For instance, Clark is one of the few surfers that actually enjoyed riding bigger Waimea Shorebreak on a standup surfboard.

Thus bringing us to the point at hand. Clark has become the most recognized water photographer of our time for his uncanny ability to capture moments that others have not. He has, in many ways, developed a new style of wave art photography that had never been done, depending on who you talk to, nor been marketed correctly before him. To top that off, Clark is a friendly individual who always brings stoke with him to the water.

Below is an edit done by Fred Booth on Clark. Pretty insane. It speeds up after the extended intro. Trust me, wait out the intro and you'll be glad you did.

Surge Version 4.0 is here!

2011-12-31T22:00:00.002-10:00

Surge Bodyboarding Version 4.0 at SurgeBodyBoarding.com

Season's Greetings | PHASE I | Christmas.

2011-12-30T20:09:00.003-10:00

Pretty amazing to watch planes take off from LAX and shoot right over us.

Christmas time is so positive. I love it. I love the lights,the songs, the typically cooler temperatures, … the whole vibe of the season.As a teacher, I also love the fact that my work schedule follows a schoolstudent’s. If they are on holiday, I am on holiday. That means two weeks plusmore off of work. Cheehoo!

The first week off consisted of trips to town, takingLindsay to the airport, goodbye’s to Ted and Ian, doner kebab, meeting up withKumari and her fiancée, Lindsay and Ashley, and a little surfing. (If you’venever had doner kebab, please go to China Town and you’ll be stoked!) The surfwas pretty below par, as this whole season has been thus far, so that wasn’texactly the high light of the first portion of the break by any means. Just nothaving to go to work, though, is sufficient to make one happy. At least that’show it is for me. Love to relax and do nothing.

The second portion of the trip included a certain flight outof HNL to LAX on Christmas Eve. My little braddah picked me up and, after aquick visit to Lindsay at her grandparent’s house in Torrance, we were off tomy older braddah and his family’s house in Ventura. My parents were therealready. Ventura is located just south Santa Barbara. It’s a mellow city withplenty of surf potential within its midst. My kind of place.

One of the spots Rodge and I checked. Was a tad bit to small to brave the cold.

We had some Mexican food at the house and talked story. Itwas nice to catch up with the famili. We woke up to a Sunday Christmas.Christmas doesn’t land on a Sunday too often, so that was nice. We openedpresents, and I received a Go Pro HD 2! Holy crap! I’ve been wanting one ofthese. So blessed. Afterwards we went to a sacrament meeting at the local ward.It was only a sacrament service for Christmas Sunday, so church was only onehour. Now that’s a Christmas present. Haha!

After church we ate some tamales, I took a nap, and we hungout for a bit. Then Blake, my niece Adeline, Rajah, and strolled down the coastto check out the surf. Not jump in the water but to just scope it out. Tide wassuper low, but it was a definitely a pristine, warm day in the Californ-I.A.It’s days like this that would make any person question why they wouldn’t wantto live there.

We got back to Ventura and hour before sunset. We walked out to the ocean. Blake taught Adeline how to fly her kite that she received. Boomer, the dog, ran around like made. We all watched the sun go down. It was nice. Memorable.

My mom and me.

The next day I met up with a friend, Thomas Gaulke, whohappens to live right in Ventura. Thomas is from the Big Island, but he hasbeen all over the states in the Coast Guard for the past eleven years. Wetalked story at his house for a while, and then we ventured down to check thesurf at a famous naval base in the area.

The surf was small but looked to improve with the tide. Wesat on the rocks and watched it for a while. Thomas made a few calls to somefriends, Julien “Speedy” Durand and Jason Belzer. We hung out for a bit andthen jumped in with Jason. Julien came down a little bit later. Man… the waterwas coooool-ddd. It seriously felt like needles piercing through my thin 3/2mmwetsuit skin. It’s been a while since I felt this cold in the surf.

One of the gems.

There were definitely some little grinders out there, sothat helped us cope with the cold. Everyone got some really fun looking waves.There weren’t so many ramps, but I could definitely see the potential. Thepotential is mind-boggling, actually.

By the time I got out of the water, I realized I had stayedin too long. I couldn’t even feel my feet. It felt like they had gone to sleep.Kind of funny trying to crawl up the rocks. I felt like a newborn or something.

We headed back to Ventura. From there I was to head down toLindsay’s grandparent’s for the afternoon and evening. Part way there, though,I started feeling really achy and sickly. After a call to cancel my drive, Iheaded to Jamba Juice, ate an acai topper (since they don’t serve acai primobowls in Cali for some reason) and veg-d out in the truck. I fell asleep for aboutan hour or more and realized I was sick. I drove to my older braddah’s houseand crashed.

I hate being sick. Plus the fact, which I don’t think Imentioned, I always get the meanest allergies when I go to Cali. Anyways, I wasfine by the morning. Not healthy enough to jump in the water, but felt goodenough to head to Torrance to meet up with Linds.

I arrived in Torrance that afternoon, and we drove to SanPedro to meet up with my good friend Nico, aka “Bang Bang,” and his lady,Desire, at Green Onion. It was nice to see Nico and Desire.

Manhattan Pier (10 minutes from Torrance) at sunset.

The next day I had a few errands. I headed back to Torrance that evening to hang out. Lindsay and I walked the boardwalk at Redondo and then met Cory and his lady in Newport Beach for dinner at Bear Flag. It's this fish market slash poke place. We all subsequently ordered burritos, which were pretty good. We hung out until pretty late and then headed back to Lindsay's grandparents.

The next morning I parted ways with Lindsay and her family, and then I shot over to Orange County to get my sensor cleaned at Canon. I was supposed to meet up with Bryan Pezman to eat lunch and head to Samy's, but my phone died and I got lost in the rolling hills of OC for a couple hours. Nightmare.

I finally through in the towel and headed to Richard and Kari Pata's house in Irvine. We caught up a bit, watched their five children, ordered take from Golondrinas, and Richard and I hashed through the last details of Surge Version 4.0. After hours of that I said, "Aloha," and parted ways because I was planning to surf with Joshua Shelly and the boys up in Ventura early the next morning.

END PHASE I.

You're not cool unless you ... pee your pants.

2011-12-22T23:39:00.002-10:00

About a week or so ago I was driving to town to meet up with some old friends at Cheesecake Factory. The drive was actually really nice along the east side, as it always is. Nothing out of the ordinary. Only thing is as I was rounding Chinaman's Hat I got the signal from my body that I was going to need to take a leak in the next 30 minutes. Well, thirty minutes give or take. I thought to myself, "Well, yeah, I think I can make it to Cheesecake just fine."

I think I was doing fine until my truck started climbing Likelike. Then as I emerged from the tunnel and started descending down towards town, it - the piss pains (which I will refer to the rest of this story) - began. You know when your stomach slash bladder slash crotch region starts getting sharp jolts and your forehead and palms start sweating profusely? Oh yeah, and you also start thinking irrationally.

Instead of just pulling over to the side of the highway to relieve the pain (which I know sounds like the easiest solution to my dilemma in retrospect) I started pressing my gas pedal in hopes that I might make better time to Cheesecake.

Stupid. Stupid. Stupid.

So I've done my fair share of pissing in a bottle while on the road. I don't recall whether I picked up from Lloyd Christmas on Dumb and Dumber or what, but it's just something I'll admit I've done a couple times. It's kind of tricky, but you don't have to be a pro. The only thing I forgot about before this particular attempt on Likelike is that I did it on H3. H3 is a smoother road with a solid slope when you're heading from the tunnel down to Aloha Stadium, whereas Likelike is kind of pot holed and not quite as steep.

This is where it all goes bad.

So I had a full bottle of water in the car. It was one of those $.99 Menehune bottles you get from Foodland. You know, typical kine water bottle and good enough. I unscrewed the bottle cap and poured out all the water onto the highway while driving. I unzipped my shorts, arranged and lined it up with the mouth of the bottle. I then tried to sit up in a standing sort of position to assure that the stream would flow right into the bottle. Then out of the corner of my eye I see TheBus behind me in the right lane

Of course, since TheBus is a lot higher, all the passengers in the left window seats were going to get an X-Rated peep show a la yours truly, so I had to abort mission. I maneuvered through the random cars until the coast was clear. By this point my leg is shaking, I have to piss so bad. Why I didn't just pull over and pee on the side of the road escapes me.

This is where it all really goes bad.

So now I'm paranoid. You know, for some reason when you're driving you feel like everyone is watching your every move. Of course, in reality they aren't. No one cares. Or do they? Such is one's irrational state of mind when they have to pee. Nothing else matters. Nothing is more important. The world is ending.

I set things up for the second attempt while keeping my eyes on all cars in my peripheral. I finally let the first stream into the bottle. Things are good. Life feels better.

This is where it all really-really goes bad.

The bottle is starting to fill up a little too much. The pee is starting to work it's way back up through the mouth of the bottle. Holy crap. I'm panicking. Why am I pissing so much?

I pinch things off. I thought it was a good idea a the time, but the only thing is I still have a lot more pissing to do.

This is where it all seriously just goes bad.

Pinching doesn't work. A stream of piss shoots into the air onto the steering wheel. I actually piss a little bit onto my shorts. I cannot believe this is happening. What's wrong with me? Who am I? Holy ****! I think I said all of that.

I'm baffled. Stupified. Embarrassed.

It's the first time I've ever pissed my pants.

Luckily I have some paper towels in my glove compartment. Not for these sorts of occasions because these sorts of occasions aren't supposed to happen. But I guess now I can say I carry paper towels around in my glove compartment just in case I decide to piss my pants again.

My shorts have a small piss mark, and I'm going to meet up with friends at Cheesecake. I pat down my shorts. It'll take time to dry. I pull out some hand sanitizer and squirt it onto the paper towel to wipe off the piss that hit my steering wheel. Sanitize my hands, too. This is nasty.

Crap. Now the piss pains are back in full effect. They are getting even worse.

I merge onto the H2 to behold a parking lot. FML. Are you serious? What am I supposed to do now? I can't just pull over and take a piss on the side of the highway now.

Life sucks for the next 20 minutes until I exit Kinau. Well, life sucks still but at least there is a shimmer of hope. I head straight for the mall. Then I start getting side-tracked by these pains that stop my brain from functioning normally. Now I think Walmart is my savior.

As I'm approaching Walmart on Kapiolani, I think to myself, "Ev, Walmart is going to be packed, and you're going to have to walk all the way from the back of the parking lot to the bathroom towards the entrance. You won't make it."

I won't make it. The piss pains are killing me. I start actually believing I'm in a dream and that it'll be okay to just let it go.

Come on. You can hold it.

I'm at the light that turns into Pi'ikoi, the street where Walmart is located. I'm bouncing my leg in the truck like I have tourettes. The turn light is taking forever. What's wrong with this light? I look to the corner and see a KFC.

That's the spot. Yes, KFC.

I have to go for it. The light turns green. No one will let me turn left. Why are there so many cars? Jeez. I finally make the turn as the light turns yellow. I look for an entrance. It's an exit lane. One way. Just my luck. I go for it anyways. I don't care. Give me a ticket.

I jet out of my truck. Somehow I remember to lock it. I guess some habits never die. Do this funky jog-walk-robot-boogie that let's me move fast yet holds the pee in to the front of KFC. I whip open the doors, sprint passed the ordering counter to the restroom in the back dining area.

No way. No way. No waaaay. A woman and her son or daughter (I cannot remember) are just closing the door to a unisex restroom. There's only one bathroom in KFC? I hate KFC.

There's no time to waste, though. I got to pee. I got to pee. I exit the KFC and find my next best option, which is the wall in the wide open parking lot. I corner myself as much as I can next to the trash can and release.

Ahhhhhhhhhhh ... this is the longest piss I've ever taken in my life. What did I drink today?

Right from that moment my reason to live and ability to use reasoning returned to me. I could see the world for what it once was. Thank you!

I made my way to Cheesecake. It was a good time.

Lindsay the World Traveler.

2011-12-20T12:37:00.000-10:00

About a year and a half ago my fiancee Lindsay had done a shoot with Devin Graham and some others from BYU Film School for an Independent Study program. Little did she know it would be televised, played at football games, pictures of her would appear on billboards, etc. The funny thing about the video is that while it appears to be filmed around the world, it was all filmed on Oahu. Kind of makes you think about the movies you watch. Enjoy!

SURGEfilms Episode v1.0

2011-12-16T15:26:00.003-10:00

I wanted to present the first episode of SURGEfilms 1.0. This first episode showcases the booming hot bed for bodyboarding - Tahiti. Within this episode you will witness action from Tauarii Ariihoahoa, Moana Florent, Marcus Rodrigues, Tinihau Mveng, David Tuarau, and Lionel Pedusseau. The edit was pieced together by Marcus Rodrigues, co-maker of Shacks and Shakas.

SURGE films Episode v1.0 from SURGE films on Vimeo.
For more edits, head to SURGEfilms as well as other podcasts Surge sponsors at LINKtv! Podcasts and episodes from other regions of the world to come!

SurgeBodyBoarding.com Bodyboard wax!

2011-12-12T09:02:00.007-10:00

(p) Alcyone Melonson

With the debute of our fourth issue and revamped website, we also announce the release of a new Surge product - board wax! I have a few blocks on tap. The wrap features a shot of Dave "Dubb" Hubbard at Waimea shorebreak last winter. The shot was taken by good friend and Maui charger, Wade "Wade-o" Saunders.

Keep your eyes open to purchase the wax at SurgeBodyBoarding.com and other bodyboarding outlets.

Super Sábado.

2011-12-11T11:00:00.061-10:00

It is Saturday. It was the first time in a while that Lindsay has had the weekend off from work. After pawning a few things off at a yard sale, Lindsay, Morgan, and I took off for the North Shore. On the way, I spoke with Jacob VanderVelde and met up with him at V-Land. Noticed Keahi Parker and Paul Benco out in the lineup before paddling out. Lindsay posted up on the beach and shot photos while we went out for about an hour. The rain eventually chased us in. Well, it chased me in because, in those situations, I get a little nervous about my camera gear.

Keahi cutting it. (p) Evan Fa

Paul Benco reversing off the left. (p) Evan Fa

Jacob with the ARS on the inside bowl. (p) Lindsay Warner

Jacob powering through a reverse. (p) Lindsay Warner

Morgan with a stylish reverse. (p) Lindsay Warner

We then got something to eat and headed over to Ke iki. Lindsay took some photos of me while Morgan napped like a sissy on the beach. Haha! Nah, but there were some hefty ones coming through.

Had some wedges. (p) Lindsay Warner

Meat pie frame #1. (p) Lindsay Warner

Meat pie frame #2. (p) Lindsay Warner

Yours truly. (p) Morgan Halas

Empty lil' beast. (p) Morgan Halas

We ran into my long time friends Matt and Jon Kema. They're pretty much my second family. They invited us over to a baby luau at Sunset Elementary. We grinded some local foods, helped them break down, and then went across the street to check out Pipe.

After checking it for a second, Morgan and I jumped in for a short evening session right before dark. The crowd was pretty thin because all the standups in town had been partying it up. It was nice to get a taste of Pipe. It's been all too long. I got a couple at Pipe and a ramp at Backdoor. Overall, it was a worthwhile paddle out.

We headed home, made an acai bowl and watched Damages. I crashed out. Meanwhile, I guess Lindsay Lohan decided to come out and hangout at a house party in Laie. Of all places ... who would have thought Laie?

Triple Crown | Pipe Masters.

2011-12-08T22:00:00.058-10:00

I have love and hate for the Triple Crown of Surfing. Well, mostly a hate relationship. It doesn't thrill me like most people, essentially because it equates to an even more crowded lineup of dude-bro-brah surfers. If we get a solid early season, then that makes it much easier to grin and bear its presence. Of course, this year's early season was nearly non-existent, so by the time the Triple Crown caravan galloped in it seemed unfair and easy to resent.

As mother nature had it, though, the surf didn't turn on for the Triple Crown. Actually, the Pacific didn't turn on its facet until the Pipe Masters, and, man, did it pour it on. Indeed it did.

The Pipe Masters experienced the first real swell of the season. It was third reefing, peaky, sketchy, rampy (which does pretty much nothing for standup surfing out there). Lindsay, Morgan, and myself strolled up to the glimpse of real Pipeline ... fangs and all. It seemed too much for the majority of the competitors. Not really that good for standup surfing. It was too rampy, too ledgy, and just flat out not suitable for them.

Bruce Irons on a bomb.

If only it was the holding period for the IBA World Tour event. People would have been completely astonished, baffled, and sweating in their palms. It would have been a spectacle for the tourists lining the beach. Not just the waves, too, but the acrobatics that make bodyboarding that much more functional and high performance in these types of heavy waves.

After a few awe inspiring moments and some frustration over watching the event, we took a detour down to Ke iki. I just wanted to see how big it was. How out of control the place was. It was indeed. The type of day where you would drown. I snapped off some empty wave photos as evidence.

Then it was off to Waimea to check the shorebreak. It was big, but not like big Waimea shorebreak big. It was somewhere in between. There were some sets but nothing to be too fearful of. We lounged for a minute while I took some photos from the rivermouth toward the jump rock.

Waimea showing its teeth.

After lunch we decided not to go to the west side, but head back to the event. We all kind of just lounged around there, napping, watching the Pipe Masters, and so on.

Linds chill-axing at the event.

All in all, it was a fun day with Linds and Morgs. I wish I could have surfed, but sometimes the day just doesn't call for it.

Shot at Ke iki.

2011-12-08T10:44:00.027-10:00

Clark posted this shot today from Ke iki last Friday. It was my first link up of the afternoon, and I scorpioned pretty hard. Funny thing is it reminds me of a frame grab that Mark Balasbas, my friend at Heights Productions and Spunjah Chronic, video'd back in 2005.

Check out both and you'll see the similarities:

Ke iki (p) Clark Little

VERSUS

Insanities (frame) Mark Balasbas / Heights Productions

Shorebreak Wednesdays.

2011-12-07T22:56:00.051-10:00

The scene.

The people.

Right after work we - Ted, Ian, Sarah, Paul, Abby, Morgan, and myself - jetted over to the shorebreak lounge. The previous swell had been fading but mixing with the massive WNW on its way to greet the Pipeline Masters tomorrow. The sandbar was right on the beach, so with the mixture of rising swell and chop on the water, it was treacherous at times.

I planted on the sand down the beach to shoot empties for a bit. Ian, Paul, and some of the Kahuku kids were catching a few so I captured a few here and there of them. Paul took one of the biggest beatings I have seen someone take out at the spot. First of all, he caught one of the back sets, so the backwash chop was pushing against the wave. Second, he wasn't entirely under it. So he essentially tried to make his way down the face but was then halted by the chop and caught in the lip and pounded. Pretty insane.

Kees, from my 3rd period at Kahuku, going for broke.

TJ, from my first period at Kahuku, dropping into one.

Rocky with the air drop.

Ian going with the lip.

Shadon, one of my students last year, about to get slammed.

Paul with that wave of the day.

I then made my way to the water, but only caught a few by the rocks. Morgan caught a pretty insane one down the beach, too.

Yours truly going for my first one.

Deceivingly perfect.

Overall, good times a la playa. Over and out.

WITHINcast Episode 2.

2011-12-07T09:50:00.017-10:00

This second podcast by Within features more action from the bodyboarding brethren down in French Polynesia, i.e. Tahiti. The co-sponsors for this episode are Pride Bodyboards and the friendly people at Surge Bodyboarding. I'm really excited we're standing behind the great works of Eric Schnitzler at Within.

No matter the location or bodyboarders being featured, every podcast Eric has put out reminds me of why I bodyboard and how much more I have to progress. In other words, it excites me to watch each edit. Give it a watch and you'll see what I mean.

WITHINcast Episode 2 from LINKtv on Vimeo.

For more videos, check out LINKtv.

Saturday Rendezvous.

2011-12-04T23:30:00.007-10:00

Since we had a good time Friday afternoon, Maurice and I decided to give Keiki a try Saturday. Of course, OTW was probably a lot better--ramps, a lot more makeable, etc; but Maurice and I pretty much had the whole place to ourselves. So we jumped in the water as the sun starting poking its head over the mountains above Pupukea Heights.

The lighting could have been better. Just as the surf could have been more consistent. Yet such is life and surf. Nothing can go your way all the time. Still, the sun made some cameo appearances so we linked up a couple with some sunlight filtering through the clouds.

We worked our way up and down the beach to find the best pocket in the shorebreak. We had a few link ups that would have been legendary had some spray or spit not been in the way. Nonetheless, it was a good time and I'm glad we chose it over somewhere else.

Oh Ke iki! Oh How I luv Yah!

2011-12-03T21:21:00.002-10:00

Without a doubt, this has been one of the slowest seasons on record. Surf-wise, the North Shore has done everything except live up to its reputation. Of course, now the Triple Crown of Surfing and all its side effects are in tact. I mean, the circus came here irregardless. Except now, for lack of awe-inspiring surf, everyone is that much more wave starved and overly eager.

This following week's forecast looks bright. The tail end of this past week brought something substantial, too. For the first time this season I saw OTW and Aints looking more like themselves. Actually, Friday afternoon was size-able with some big opportunities if you played your cards right. As for Morgan, Ghent, and myself, we weren't about to jump into a pack of starved wolves out there just for the dim possibility of getting a good one. Instead, we opted for something else--Keiki.

We pulled up to Keiki and checked it. It looked fun. Mid-sized with some bangers more towards the Log Cabins side of the beach. We gave it a go.

It's always a little nerve racking to get into the groove out at Keiki. I mean, the shorebreak is probably one of the heaviest that exists. It's not that other places don't get bigger; it's just that so much energy (winter swell energy) gets compressed into this shorebreak.

Morgan and I jumped in and started things off by just going on some. Clark Little hit the water as well. We pulled into some hefty ones. I pretty much scorpioned on my first one. It was pretty intense. I probably should have gotten hurt. Morgan ended up konking his head pretty hard, which left him a migraine later on that night. Clark even got one of his fins torn off. Overall, it was intense likewise and just a flat out good time.

Below are some some images from both Ghent Scott and Clark Little.

Morgan's first or one of his first waves. (p) Ghent Scott

Morgan and Clark linking up. You can see the flash on the housing going off. (p) Ghent Scott

The one I scorped on. (p) Ghent Scott

Morgan slipping into it. (p) Ghent Scott

Inside. (p) Clark Little

Yours truly about to get sandwiched. (p) Ghent Scott

Below shows both the land and water perspective of one wave I caught right before sunset:

Frame #1 - Land (p) Ghent Scott

Frame #1 - Water (p) Clark Little

Frame #2 - Land (p) Ghent Scott

Frame #2 - Water (p) Clark Little

Frame #3 - Land (p) Ghent Scott

Frame #3 - Water (p) Clark Little

SurgeBodyBoarding.com | Version 4.0 | Cover Release

2011-11-29T12:00:00.001-10:00

Surge Media Group | SurgeBodyBoarding.com is proud to release the cover of Surge Version 4.0. The cover showcases Australian hell charger Glen Sullivan charging one of the many treacherous slabs that have given him a name. The photograph was taken by Steve Jones.

Version 4.0 dives into the mind of California’s very own bodyboarding zen master—Joe Grodzen. Then in homage to Stewart and his famed summer of love, Version 4.0 trails the south swell of the decade from Tahiti to Hawaii and on to its landing in California. Version 4.0 also pursues the truth about wave etiquette à la Neo, honors the “true” professionals of the sport, exposes Toobs main man behind the shaping knife—Mike Brum, and delves into Thomas Gaulke’s rediscovery of bodyboarding. Costa Rican prodigy William “Chucky” Fallas Varela expresses the true meaning of “La Pura Vida” through both his riding and lifestyle. Lastly, and of course not least, Version 4.0 houses an extensive 2011/2012 Board Guide!

Version 4.0 marks Surge Bodyboarding’s commitment to four issues a year. Release dates: March, June, October, and December. Expect to see this issue online within the next two weeks.

Red Raider Nation.

2011-11-26T08:16:00.019-10:00

After last years fiasco with the OIA last season, Kahuku not only ravaged through the OIA but took the state championships as well. As teacher at KHIS with family alumni stretching to way back in the day, I take a bit of pride in their victory. It's nice to see good things come of their hard work and dedication. To many more years of Kahuku champions!

Going Velzy.

2011-11-23T22:33:00.023-10:00

I've rekindled my love (at least somewhat) for V-Land these past two days. It's not that it's not a great wave, it's more the fact that it's become over-run. Despite the fact that merely 15 years ago it was one of the most notoriously localized spots, it has become everyone and their mother's go to spot. The level of respect and etiquette has deteriorated out there. Yet sometimes everywhere on the North Shore looks hideous, so it's the only worthwhile place to go.

Roger / rajahdatphoto.com posted on the beach and shot us during two very worthwhile sessions. Today we only planned to jump in for 45 minutes and ended up staying out for 3 hours. And I'll be honest, the bodyboarders took over on both days. Out of all of us, Micah took the cake. He truly showed his local knowledge of the spot.

Session 1:

Don't you love when one sneaks by everyone unridden?

Morgan pulling in deep.

Morgan with the cut.

Yours truly with an ARS on the inside bowl.

Joe Eslinger with a shampoo barrel on the knee.

Micah flying through a dredger.

Micah throwing da hammah like usual.

Session 2:

River Randle owned the inside bowls.

Micah slash, slam, cut.

Micah showing his stylish colors.

Yours truly cut, slice, dice.

Morgan throwing his weight into it.

Style is Everything - Mason Rose.

2011-11-20T22:50:00.005-10:00

One of my friends Mason Rose pieced together a fresh edit for his Turbo board model.

Sansei Saturday.

2011-11-20T12:00:00.002-10:00

It's been a long time since we've gone to 1/2 off sushi at Sansei. I'm not one that likes to eat at night, but Sansei is a pretty magical place. It's got some good rolls on tap there. Plus there's karaoke. Funny because you'll never catch me singing karaoke. Actually, singing in general.

This Saturday we went for Bethany Shoneman's 21st birthday. Here are some photos:

Ted, Trent, Ted, and Gideon.

The happy married couple - birthday girl Bethany and Mike.

Gideon and Morgan.

Le Lindsay and yours truly.

Bethany, Mike, Clark, Brent, Katie, and Lindsay.

Ted rocking out some Bon Jovi.

In some way, shape, or form.

2011-11-13T09:20:00.003-10:00

In the afternoon Lindsay, Roger, and I met up with Kawika, Morgan, and a few others at Logs. I wasn't expecting much but it ended up surprising me. There were some hefty little lefts breaking right in front of the walk path. I saw Morgan catch one. Then this one drained all the way from outside to the shore. No one on it except my mind surfing it.

I paddled out with one of my new boards. Trying to get used new boards can be hit or miss. I think this one lies somewhere in between the two. Not sure if I like it, not sure if I hate it yet. After this session I'm still a little weary of it, especially since I know I have two magic boards in my closet.

Well, I caught a couple waves. Nothing sassy. Then there was this third one. Looked like it was lining up. I dropped in and "Boom!" the thing raced. It was an abnormally good wave for this particular day. I was kind of shocked, to be honest. I think I just lucked out. It made my day.

Here are a few photographs from the session:

The scenery. (p) Roger Fa

The wave. Saving some of the frames. (p) Roger Fa

Finishing it off with a little reverse. (p) Roger Fa

Enduring the Praxis. Kiss my Prax-is.

2011-11-12T21:29:00.002-10:00

Today I had to take the Praxis so that I can keep teaching at Kahuku. For those that don't know, Praxis I is broken into three sections: Reading, Mathematics, and Writing. Each is one hour in length. Not very difficult at all. Well, I guess I better wait to see if I pass each section before I make such statements.

The most difficult part about the testing was the temperature in the room. For real, I don't want to come off like a sissy but the air conditioner was blasting in there. Not just, "Oh wow! This feels really good" type of air conditioner. More like, "Holy crap! This **** is freezing!"

Instead of being a test of knowledge it became a feat of physical strength and will power. I probably should have worn pants, shoes and socks, and a hooded sweatshirt. Maybe throw in some scalding yerba mate or something. Or maybe I should have worn a full wetsuit under my clothes?

Anyways, enough of my complaining. It was kind of interesting to see certain similarities between this and the LSAT. I mean, don't get me wrong, the LSAT is way more difficult. I just couldn't help but notice similarities and wonder if I really want to go to law school or not?

Veterans Day.

2011-11-12T08:05:00.001-10:00

I had the day off. Started kind of rocky but I shot photos for about an hour at Logs. Was trying to link up some shots with this Maui kid named Kahekili. Stormy conditions and bad lighting kind of hindered it. I did get some pretty cool shots of John John Florence, though, so I'll share a couple.

After shooting I headed home to eat some lunch. Then we went over to Laie Beach Park for about an hour. The tide was low so there wasn't much action. The KBB crew was in effect both in the parking lot and in the water. Was nice to see everyone there to share some waves and talk story.

It's a mirage.

Kili off the bottom.

Then popping a reverse. Too much spray.

John John sneaking into a left.

Lunch Time.

2011-11-09T16:26:00.006-10:00

Headed to my special place during lunch. My brother Roger took some photos. Morgan, a couple of the Mauris, and myself shared the line-up for 45 minutes. Was sunny. Was fun. Was a good time.

Jah-loha.

Hey there little guy.

Connection.

Tiny bubbles.

Adios.

Mor-groms.

Morgan slide-slide-slippidy slide.

Fresh. Over and out.

No Weekend Warrior.

2011-11-06T12:54:00.005-10:00

Neal Miyake with the angle.

It's not like I don't have time to surf anymore, but the only real time that frees up for me to surf all day is the weekend and holidays. Since I have church and don't surf on Sunday, that simply leaves Saturday. Of course, as a teacher my life follows the days off and free time of a high school student, so I squeeze in plenty of sessions. Essentially, what I'm trying to say is my life isn't exactly strenuous. I'm not quite a weekend warrior just yet.

Yesterday was a good day. Surfed all early morning at Pipe/Backdoor with Maurice, Jacob, Shannon, and company. There were really fun waves. My best wave was definitely one I got a Backdoor. It was a really long one. Besides me I know everyone else was having a good time and caught some stellar waves.

My only qualm with this season is that we haven't had any real Pipe days. The North Shore has been odd and slow to wake up. Don't get me wrong, we've had some small to medium sized swells. We just haven't had anything too memorable yet. Of course, I know it won't be like that forever. The North Shore is destined to do its thing because that's nature.

Unfortunately, the circus (all the surfing world) is on its way if not here already. It always bums me out to have to deal with all of them. Such is life. This year I have determined I will take a different approach--Enjoy it like they aren't even here.

Here are the photos from Saturday. All photos from Roger Fa at rajahdatphoto.tumblr.com unless indicated otherwise.

Jacob VanderVelde on sneaky one.

Jacob VanderVelde with the punt of the day.

Maurice "Mo" Aubuchon slicing up a reverse.

A little scoop.

Squeezing out.

Kind of a funny frame. I spun off the backwash and somehow I ended up in this situation.

Una pequena.

Taking the drop.

Day Off. Off Day.

2011-10-25T19:21:00.005-10:00

So I had the day off. It was Wade's last day with us before heading back to Maui. I honestly thought the surf was going to be pumping. Well, too our disappointment it was pretty average-ish. Mostly because of my expectations.

The tide was kind of fat. The swell was ultra inconsistent and speedily dropping. Still we caught a few fun ones. Hey, it was better than nothing.

That evening we all headed out to eat at Pizza Bob's, my old working place. I think it's been two years or more since I last worked there. Wow! How time flies.

I gorged myself beyond my stomach's recognition. I don't know why I have to do that to myself sometimes? I mean ... I ate a bit of the Haleiwa Veggie salad, more than half of a large Roberto's Deluxe pizza (5 out of 8 slices), and shared a California Club and fries with Lindsay. I think "sharing" is a bit inaccurate. I pretty much ate all of it.

Oh gluttony! Freakin' love it sometimes. Hate it, too.

Here's some photos from the morning session:

Wade with a small kine Backdoor drainer. (p) Roger Fa

Wade with a reverse. (p) Roger Fa

Jacob VanderVelde in the shade. (p) Roger Fa

Jacob with a fresh vert. (p) Roger Fa

Morgan Halas aka Satara laying down a cut. (p) Roger Fa

Satara with a tubo. (p) Roger Fa

Wesley Liquorish zipping through one. (p) Roger Fa

Ryan Colle making the cut. (p) Roger Fa

Yours truly. (p) Roger Fa

Squeezeeeee. (p) Roger Fa

Dropping in. (p) Maurice Aubuchon

Nice rollo. (p) Roger Fa

OTW Sab.

2011-10-19T17:00:00.002-10:00

Even though it was the sabbath and I don't surf on Sunday, since my friends Wade and Bryce were in town I made the exception and took photos of them out North at OTW. There was a rising swell but it was pretty washed out by the rain. OTW looked kind of junk, actually, but they jumped in anyways. Once I pulled out my camera, covered it with a towel, and started shooting them from down the beach it started to turn on a little. I think it was the tide.

Both Wade and Bryce scored some sick ones. I snapped off a few cool empties as well. Other notable moments of the morning went to Jacob VanderVelde and Ron McAdams. Ron was catching these waves that would double even triple in size with the backwash. He caught some that baffled me. Pretty amazing.

Later on Maurice made his way over with his set up and we perched it under a set of trees to shoot the rest of the morning. Derek Miyashiro punted a nice revo air on one. He connected with the lip right when the backwash lined up with it. Biggest aerial of the morning, for sure. I mean, Derek owns OTW and Insanities. Anyone tha that has been around knows that.

All and all, a fun morning. Afterwards, it was off to church for me.

Bryce dropping knee on a fresh little one.

Bryce forwarding off the backwash.

Wade with the perfect angle.

Neal Miyake really putting it all on the line for the shot.

Jacob V scooping a nice one up at Insanities.

Ron doing upside down squats.

Ron off the bottom.

Koko Head.

2011-10-16T14:42:00.037-10:00

For those that truly know me, I don't like hiking. Actually, I sort of abhor it. Why? I don't exactly know. I think it might be because of all the pointless hiking we did back in Boy Scouts growing. The kind where there was no visible reward at the end of the trail ... just hiking a big ten mile circle while the leaders sat on their okoles back at base camp. Not to mention, I'm freakishly scared of heights.

It's kind of sad because it's tainted my perspective on things to do. When people bring up the idea of hiking to me (especially Lindsay) I frown and cringe. If it's short and there is a waterfall or nice vista at the end, then I'm more inclined to participate. Otherwise, might as well go without me. I won't regret it either.

Well, Wade-o has been in town. Like always, he's "all about experience," so he recites so often. That led a small crew to tackle Stairway to Heaven one early morning. I mean, they tried to until they were caught by one of the guards patroling the hike. I didn't go, of course, but mostly because of the heights and fact I had to go to work in the morning.

When I had thought they had enough of hiking for the week, the weekend was closing in on us and talk about Koko head frequented conversations. Ironically, I'd always wanted to do Koko Head. I mean, I've been looking at it since I was younger at Sandy's. It always seemed like a good work out, which I'm all about.

Saturday came and we had all commited to jamming this thing. After a late start we slowly but surely worked our way to Koko Head in Wade's rental and ventured to the trail head at 3PM. A lot cooler temperature than earlier, which was sort of deliberate. Once I started looking up, I realized something I had never before--it's not stairs. It's an old train track.

We all started pumping our way up. Man, kind of a workout. I was loving it until we got to a section where the there is nothing under the track. You have to cross it by stepping on the beams. Below it there is a drop off. Sweet! Most people wouldn't trip but I'm scared of heights, remember.

Wade-O.

Linds.

Yours truly.

I tip toed my way accross. Then came the steepist part of the trail. None of that bothered me, though, because I was loving the burn in my legs right until it let off at the top.

As we all made it to the top, we looked down to this pristine view of Hawaii Kai to Diamond Head on one side and Sandy's to Makapu'u point on the other. So awesome! Now this is the type of hiking I dig. The kind where there is a reward for your efforts.

We all sat up there on this abandoned who-knows-what for a half an hour while taking photos and talking story. We met this guy from Alaska that climbed some other part of the ridge.

Lindsay taking in the view.

Yours truly.

Wade-O maxing out.

As we started heading down I began realizing that going down is far more difficult than going up. Well, at least for Wade and I. Lindsay was marching down it like Speedy Gonzales.

Once all three of us reached the bottom we could feel the shake in our legs. It was pretty comedic. If you'd bend down you'd shake and looked like MC Hammer.

All in all, it was a great time. I think I might have changed my perspective on hiking finally. At least it gives me some sort of motivation to do Stairway. Possibly, I mean. Haha!

Logs with Friends.

2011-10-13T18:42:00.002-10:00

A small crew of Mauians--Wade, Kaleo, and Bryce--spent some time with us on the East Side. It so happened that one of the mornings a really low key spot on the east side was fun. It wasn't firing at all, but sort of showing how it potentially does its thing. Considering that it we were rolling five deep, I made sure we split up and paddled out in two groups. By the time we got out there, though, the two people out there had paddled in. So we had the spot all to ourselves the whole duration of the session, which was about an hour and a half.

The winds started really turning on so we all decided it was time to head in. We reached shore, checked a few other spots, ate, lounged around the house. Micah came over to meet up with us for a second session somewhere. He had gone up to Log Cabin earlier and said there were some waves lingering on the North Shore.

We headed up North, making no stop except Logs. We checked it and it looked pretty fun. It wasn't big but there were some lefts. The only thing was it looked packed. I mean, packed. Of course, the people that typically frequent aren't your Pipe crowd, so it's not too much to worry about. The boys were amping so they jetted out there. I, on the other hand, was not as amped and needed a nap.

I assume the boys got some good ones while I napped. Otherwise, I'd be disappointed. Right when I woke up I witnessed Wade get some nice ones back to back, so I ran up to the car and grabbed my stuff.

Although it wasn't quite as good as it looked (which is kind of abnormal because it's usually the other way around), we all had fun enjoying waves in each other's company. It's always nice to surf with friends, especially ones I wish I could surf with more often. If only Chase could have been there then it would have been more complete.

Roger shot with Wade-O's camera and his 400MM. A different lens than my 70-300MM, he took him a bit to adjust. Nonetheless, he captured some great images and thus documenting our afternoon. For more photos by Roger, check out his page at rajahdatphoto.tumblr.com!

Wade-O Saunders throwing some rail down.

Morgan Halas throwing a lil reverse.

Morgan with some shampoo.

Kaleo Delatori off the bottom.

Bryce Jacinto throwing his foot loose.

Yours truly getting lucky.

Micah McMullin putting a little edge into a small one.

NS This Week.

2011-10-11T10:00:00.010-10:00

This past week had some action up on the North Shore. Mind you, it was far from all time, but it was definitely a decent flavor. Pipeline and Backdoor were kind of the call earlier in the week. It wasn't doing its thing, per se, but it still had some. We spent Tuesday through Thursday there.

The trades definitely increased by Thursday evening with a N-NE swell mixing into the lineup on Friday. Log Cabins was the call. It wasn't firing at all at Logs. Roger shot Micah on Friday and linked up some good ones, though. Saturday was one of those beautiful, cloudless days that really had the fall ambiance to it. Good times with the boys.

Below is some photo evidence of this past week. With the exception of patrick's photo, all photos taken by my little brother, Roger Fa. You can check out more of his work at rajahdatphoto.tumblr.com. Enjoy.

Tuesday:

Yours truly air dropping. (p) Patrick Vierra

One of the few end bowls. (p) Roger Fa

Ian McCaulley sliding into one. (p) Roger Fa

Someone lucky. (p) Roger Fa

Thursday:

Guilherme throwing a flip at Backdoor. (p) Roger Fa

Little bottom turn. (p) Roger Fa

Cousin Rome charging one on the knee. (p) Roger Fa

Nice empty at Insanities. (p) Roger Fa

Jase sneaking around. (p) Roger Fa

Morgan Halas, less than two years into the game. (p) Roger Fa

The best one I got this afternoon. (p) Roger Fa

Same wave. (p) Roger Fa

Micah "Da Hammah" McMullin jetting through Backdoor (p) Roger Fa

Kawika Kaui floating one at Backdoor. (p) Roger Fa

One to finish off the day. (p) Roger Fa

Friday:

Micah trowing da hammah. (p) Roger Fa

Micah slicing one. (p) Roger Fa

Saturday:

Talking story with my cousin Micah.

Trying to float a little spin but not. (p) Roger Fa

Cutting the cheese log. (p) Roger Fa

Micah had a big snap this Saturday morning, but it is on save for Surge v4.0. Stay in tune!

A Big Trip to the Dentista.

2011-10-07T08:35:00.001-10:00

Two and a half weeks ago I was flossing my teeth, as is recommended if you don't like to have junk stuck in your teeth that makes your breath stink like doodoo, and the floss got stuck in between my lower left molars. As I yanked it out I felt like it took part of something with it. After analyzing it in the mirror, and since I have a filling in that molar, I just assumed it was part of the filling.

I gave a call to the dentist and asked him what he thought. He said I'm probably going to need it capped and felt uncomfortable with me waiting any longer than two weeks. I know he would do a great job and at a much cheaper price, but the only thing is he is located in Los Angeles. So I gave a call to the dentist in Kaneohe to get an estimate. They estimated the cost around $1,500. Of course, I don't have dental insurance so that's why it's so expensive.

After crunching the numbers, and since I had a week off of work for Fall break at Kahuku, I figured I'd give airline tickets to LAX a look. Tickets were pretty cheap through United--$465 total. I thought about it really hard and did it. Got a rental car package as well. Figured I'd give my padres, because they live in LA, a surprise attack.

I arrived Wednesday afternoon into the gloomy smog riddled air of Los Angeles. Man, it felt good for some reason. Well, that was until I had to jump on the freeway at rush hour with my Nissan compact vehicle from Avis. The ride was pretty long. I met up with my friend Nico at Dos Amigos in Whittier for some ranchero style bean and cheese burritos. I ate two. Was good to catch up with my good friend.

From there I went to my parent's house and surprised them. It was a treat to see the looks on their faces. I love my parents.

The next morning I woke up at the butt crack of dawn and drove to beach to surf. As I was getting on the freeway, mind you it was still dark out, and switching lanes this shard of a tire (also known as a road gator) reflected off of a semi truck and flew right into the bumper of my rental car. It felt like the Nissan had just ran over a dead body. All I knew is that it probably left a dent.

Once I parked the car at the Newport Beach Peninsula, I got out and checked the damage. Yep, left a serious dent. Great. I didn't get the insurance on the rental. I figure my Geico and/or credit card would cover it, but who knows? Oh well, checked the waves. Was junk. My friend Adam called me and said Anderson Street looked fun, so I drove to meet up with him.

We surfed Anderson Street for a couple hours. Was pretty fun despite the fact the tide was getting awfully fat. Stan Moniz, and old school bodyboarder from Waialua, was there ripping. I actually hadn't seen that guy since I was like fifteen or sixteen when my good friend Mikey Bunyan took me to go see his band play in town. Adam and some of the others were killing it. It just so happened that Lawrence was there, too, getting some barrels.

So to my big trip to the dentist. I went to Dr. Hyer that afternoon. Got the X-Ray and he determined that I didn't actually damage the filling but part of my tooth broke. He then decided that my tooth was still very healthy and that it would probably be better if he just put in another filling.

You can see where a piece of the tooth broke off (left tooth towards top left).

After about an hour of work, grinding down the old filling and cleaning it all out, putting in the new filling and polishing it, the work was done. I'm guessing that by the amount of time he spent on this tooth that any other dentist would have just gone with the cap. In other words, he did me a huge favor. As was also evidenced by the bill.

To show my appreciation I gave him a few prints of my photographs before I left.

I spent the next week in California eating plenty of Mexican food with my parents and just relaxing. I took the rental car to this mechanic my dad knows. He punched that bumper back out. I looked pretty unnoticeable with the exception of the license plate. Haha! One evening I visited Richard and Kari Pata and their five children for dinner. I didn't surf again because the waves were small. We went up to Ventura one day to visit my older brother, his wife, and daughter Adeline. That was a good time. We ate fish tacos right around the corner from their house and visited a couple of their friends.

The Nissan after the fix. You can still see where the damage took place.

All in all, this trip to the dentist was a lot bigger and better than usual.

SURGE V3.0 is out!

2011-09-30T13:14:00.003-10:00

Open publication - Free publishing - More art

Just wanted to announce to all those that actually do check out my blog that Surge v3.0 has been released at SurgeBodyboarding.com! It has been a long work in progress. A lot of passion and honest to goodness desire to promote the sport is put into this issue. Plus there is a lot of content that people can relate to, whether they bodyboard or not, from the artist profile on renowned tattoo artist Suluape Aisea Toetu'u to reggae stars at DubKonscious to North Shore food reviews to empty wave galleries and, of course, no holds bar, action packed extreme bodyboarding.

One profile that I'm extremely impressed with, and I'm impressed with the whole mag mind you, is the Guilherme "GT" Tamega profile. GT has been one of the most inspiring bodyboarding athletes to sit down and interview. He truly is a highly motivated and focused professional. What I found most inspiring was the fact he is so humble. So humble it's disarming. Of course, he is ultra competitive and there is no lack of confidence in him whatsoever, but somehow he has found a way to balance it humility. When I think about it, if GT is so humble about things then everyone else should be, too, because he has far more reason than anyone to not be.

Here is GT's latest thoughts from The AGIT/Turbo Zicatela Pro stop on the IBA World Tour in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico. Check it out and then read his interview in Surge v3.0:

Update & OTW Saturday.

2011-09-26T18:42:00.017-10:00

I love when the North Shore has waves. We've been getting some small bumps this whole month. Nothing substantial yet, but it's only a matter of time. It always comes as a reward after moping around all summer. The journey to Sandy's and town gets kind of painful (and costly, of course) and the surf here on the East Side gets a little monotonous, so it's nice to finally greet some power.

Well, this past week Morgan and I got some fun evenings at V-Land. There were some pretty good ones on Thursday, especially considering that the crowd was pretty easy. Friday wasn't nearly as good but still had some. I kind of struggle when it's so small that everyone's moms and randoms start invading the lineup. You end up passively fighting over waves with people that only pop out when it's small and soft.

Fast forward to Saturday, I got the call from Maurice that some of the boys were going to V-Land. Although tempting I knew it was going to be crowded out there, so Rodge and I headed over to Rockpiles to give OTW a check. It actually looked fun ... best it's been since we started getting these little bumps out North this September. So I paddled out while Rodge shot photos.

There were some of the boys out there, some people I don't really know by name. I ended up surfing The Point primarily with Jacob V. Derek and Mark paddled over for a few sporadically. There were some barrels, though hard to really get a good one, some ramps and a few faces to carve.

Jacob VanderVelde carving one out.

Yours truly tucking inside one.

Jacob with a rollo.

Rounding off a spin in the pocket.

Get plenty splash.

Progress - 16 down, 7 to go.

2011-09-26T08:40:00.001-10:00

So a month or more ago I'd come to the realization that I'd lost all track of what I was eating, which in effect injured my running, energy through the day, sleeping habits, and motivation. For that reason I set the goal to drop 23 pounds. I know that it sounded like a lot, especially because the Polynesian in me just wants to eat like crap, but I know my optimal physical condition and just really want to be more conscious and in balance with the way I feel physically. The reason is the way I feel physically affects that spiritual aspect and motivation.

Well, to follow up with that goal and assess it, I've pulled down 16 pounds from that goal of 23. That means I have about 7 left. I can attest to the fact that I feel better, have more energy, my thoughts are sharper, and I have much more motivation to excel at the things I do. For that reason I know that eating healthy and changing up exercise routines is the right thing for me to do.

My goal still hasn't been realized, but I know it will. I have no doubt about it whatsoever. I suggest if you're feeling like something is missing in terms of energy or you feel kind of "iffy" physically, then choose to eat healthier (which means avoiding certain foods altogether and indulging in the right ones), throw up some weights, run (sprint and jog), and you'll see the affect it has on you in more ways that one. Trust me.

The Noria Film Ep/4.

2011-09-25T12:26:00.005-10:00

Here is the fourth episode featuring Puerto Escondido, Mexico by The Noria Film. ¡Órale!

The Noria Film PODCAST EP/4 from The Noria Film on Vimeo.

Hey Shorty, It's my birthday.

2011-09-20T00:00:00.002-10:00

All right, so it's finally here once again. It's my birthday. I used to get more excited about it. Now that I'm getting closer to escaping my 20's, though, I find myself digging my heels into time. Sometimes I wish I could turn it all back. Then again, I don't want to. For all the ups and downs in life, be it the good and the bad times, mediocre times, good and bad choices, lessons learned ... I accept it all for what it's been worth.

So I'm 29. Wow! Who would have thought that we all actually do have to grow up? That we cannot just hover in our youth forever? It's all good, though. I've enjoyed the ride, and in so many different way it's only just begun. Eventually I can help bring some more ninos into the world to experience a bit of what I have. Haha!

9/11 & Hunger Games.

2011-09-11T00:00:00.042-10:00

Today marks the ten year anniversary of the Trade Center attack on 9/11/01. I still remember my mother waking me up to the news blaring on tv about a plane slamming into one of the towers. It was surreal, even unbelievable. It felt like a scene right out of a doomsday movie like Independence Day. I remember heading to work that morning with this eerie feeling cloaked over me.

My mother picked up from work during my lunch break to get something to eat and turn in my passport application. I was heading out for my mission to Madrid, Spain, in the next four months. It didn't seem real that people would go out of their way to destroy hundreds, even thousands of lives. It also just seemed too close to home.

Of course, I've never been to New York City. At least not outside of the John Kennedy International Airport. I've never had the chance to walk the grounds and soak up the true impact of this event. So many people's lives have been changed by a series of choices people decided to make. It really makes me wonder what would possess someone to do something like this to people they don't even know.

--

Furthermore, I just finished The Hunger Games a few weeks ago. I'm diving into the second one, Catching Fire, as we speak. The only reason I reference this with a post on 9/11 is that ... actually, I don't know why I am. My bad. I guess because Hunger Games takes place in a post United States age?

Official Movie Trailer.
Anyways, say a prayer for the people whose lives were affected by 9/11. Remember to respect your life, liberty, and chance to live here in the United States. Not everyone enjoys the same rights and luxuries we do here. Also, read The Hunger Games. It might make you think a little bit differently about your own country.

A little past the North Shore.

2011-09-10T21:00:00.002-10:00

This past swell provided some action for those with the nerves to stray from the path most traveled. We ventured past Haleiwa toward Kaena Point and discovered an empty left slab. We had it all to ourselves for the bulk of the swell. So while you suckas were dropping in on each other and fighting crowds, do you think we were? Sorry 'bout it.

(p) Roger Fa / Rajah Dat Photos.

Surge Version 3.0 Cover Release.

2011-09-06T00:00:00.000-10:00

Surge Media Group | SurgeBodyboarding.com is proud to release the cover of Surge Version 3.0. The cover showcases Kona Kuailani doing an air reverse at an outer island spot in the island chain of Hawaii. The photograph was taken by none other than Damien "Dooma Photos" Antioco.

Version 3.0 covers both six time world champion Guilherme Tamega and four time dropknee world champion Dave Hubbard. Also, there is an article dedicated to this past winter season on the North Shore. Plus the staple sections: Style & Power, Empties, The DK Life, and so on.

Expect the release of Version 3.0 within about a week at http://www.surgebodyboarding.com/.

Swell is on its way to the NS.

2011-09-05T12:21:00.007-10:00

This week's forecast welcomes in the first bump of our pre-mature '11-'12 winter season. Of course, the swell is coming in pretty much directly out of the north so we cannot expect too much glamour and glitz from it; but it'll be nice to surf somewhere besides the typical summer time zones. Besides, with optimal winds locked in position right now it could make for some pleasant surprises at some more mysterious locales.

Here is a photo dedicated to the ushering in of another blessed, raging, beautiful, ugly, over crowded North Shore season:

Maui Wowi.

2011-09-04T21:33:00.002-10:00

Ma'alaea, aka Freight Trains.

Word and hype had been spreading about this massive south swell on its path to Hawaii. Teahupo'o was the biggest it's ever been in years. This one was to be the south swell of this new decade. Eight to ten feet Hawaiian at its peak.

My friend Wade called me a week prior encouraging me to go to Maui for the swell. Maui on a south swell? Better chance staying on Oahu. Then again, it's not like I love town anyways. That place is a nightmare. I officially barred that place from my whole thought process years ago.

When it came down to it, though, I caved in and booked a flight over to Maui for this one, maybe twice a decade experience. Rumor was Ma'alaea was looking to actually go for the first time since that 2005 swell. All things considered, I was looking forward to a variety of rare spots that rarely break. Such was the outcome.

When we arrived the first afternoon in Kapalua, we headed straight over to Big Beach in Makena with a pit stop at Ma'alaea. Travis Copeland had given us the report from that morning and said it had some fun ones. (FYI, Big Beach is a shorebreak best likened to Keiki on the North Shore. Not quite as heavy but it's right there.) It was obvious that the swell was starting to show its face to us as we checked it from second entrance. The tide was kind of fat but was on its way down. We decided the call was right between first and second entrance. The rights were unloading on the sand, it was side-backlit, which would make for some nice photographs.

Morgan, Wade, and myself jumped in while my braddah Roger shot photographs from the beach. Wade was shooting water with the GoPro ... we'd soon trade off after a handful of beatings. Morgan and I proceeded to catch some wide ones. The sets started becoming far more frequent. My second wave snapped my board in half. That's only the second time that it's happened to me. Crazy. The only thing holding it together was the slick bottom.

The wave that broke my board.

Morgan getting a looker.

Morgan getting sassy.

I jumped back in with the board, pressed my elbows tightly over where the stringers were and dropped in on one last wave with my red board. Luckily, I didn't grapple with my board underwater. I mean, who wants to get their eye poked out by a graphite stringer? Wade let me use his yellow PMA Custom for a few more before we traded off.

Broken board ... ainokea.

Linking up with Wade-O.

This one tapered off pretty well.

With GoPro in hand, Wade snagged some pretty ludicrous ones. I was fortunate to be in the spot for a couple of them. As the sun was setting, set after set started washing through. We got swept down the beach a hundred yards or so. I was through for the day, especially since I was shooting with the GoPro. On the other hand, Roger had pretty much nailed every sequence of us in the water.

Wade's first one of the afternoon.

Wade on a set.

Looks like a little wedge.

Wade-O on the last one before we got washed up.

After session.

Second Entrance.

After this session we headed into Kahului to grind at Da Kitchen and split back to Napili to crash.

Da Kitchen.

The next morning we checked spots ... for a long time. Actually, we checked everywhere from the west side to La Perouse. Four hours later we end up back at Ma'alaea. It was really fun. We surfed this left bowl called "Pits" for about forty-five minutes to an hour before it got a little too crowded for what it was. Pits bowls right into the Ma'alaea Harbor. Leroy probably got one of the best ones within the first minute of reaching the lineup.

Checking this one spot before heading to Ma'alaea.

Ma'alaea right before we jumped in.

We then headed over to probably the most unmakeable part of the reef and started pulling into really long, hopeless closeouts. That part of the reef didn't seem to sketchy so it was good fun. Little by little, we itched our way down to the more makeable part of the reef. Still really deep but at least there was a chance. I caught one wave in particular, a set wave, and started driving in the barrel. The thing was lining up so well; but like everyone does to each other out there, a surfer dropped in on me. I snuck out the doggie door so as to not get run over by him only to see the thing keep driving down the line uninterrupted. Well, karma bit that guy because someone dropped on him. Score settled.

After a few more we all caught one and rode it to shore. We then grinded at Maui Tacos, as is tradition of every visit, and relaxed in Wade's and Travis' house. While we honestly wanted to slip into a food coma, we knew we had to make the most of this swell. Kaleo picked Travis, Morgan, and me up to surf this left hander. We rode the place until dark. It's not quite as good on a south as it is during the winter, but there were definitely some shallow barrels.

The next morning we checked Ma'alaea and snapped some photographs. We then headed back to Big Beach. We decided this morning we would scale over the rocks to surf Little Beach. (FYI, Little Beach is a nude beach. Don't get too excited, though, because it's all old people.) It was crowded so we decided to head back to Big Beach. As I was rounding the corner, I noticed that shots overlooking Big Beach from the rocks provided a neat perspective. Plus, I noticed some person's photos on Facebook of this perspective. So I told the guys I'd stick behind and shoot photos from the rocks.

Ma'alaea the last morning.

Thickness.

Wade-O going right.

Morgs and Wade-O getting washed in.

After shifting a few times to find the sweet spot, we had captured some good stuff from the rocks. (I saved the good ones for Surge and so forth.) I then made my way down and jumped in. The tide started shifting and it got weird awfully fast. My session lasted maybe thirty minutes.

We then headed back to Napili after eating Maui Tacos again. Haha! Roger, Morgan, and I jumped in the water to cool off on the west side. That's a wrap.

I'm Engaged.

2011-09-03T22:40:00.005-10:00

There she is. Isn't she lovely?

Just earlier tonight I proposed to my girlfriend of two and a half years, Lindsay Warner. Originally I was going to propose to her a couple days prior on Thursday, but I could feel that she suspected something was going down. Considering that I wanted it to be a surprise, I popped the question to her on Satuday on the way to airport before she flew out to Austria for a month. Kind of interesting timing considering she is going to be away for a while, but I know it came as a surprise. Obviously that was my whole point.

We pulled over by the entrance to Sacred Falls in Punalu'u. I dropped da knee like Jack Lindholm and asked her the main question. Luckily she said yes. Haha! The ring she is wearing is my mother's gold band. It's the original wedding ring my father Tevita got for her before he put together something a lot more baller years later. Lindsay said she loves it, so therefore things are good for me.

It feels like I have a weight lifted from my shoulders. Like all this pressure has been released from my mind. Of course, I'm not married quite yet so I don't want to get ahead of myself. However, it'll be nice to leave the single life once and for all and move on with someone I love very much. I'm over having housemates and doing their dishes anyways.

Wedge - September 1 & 2, 2011.

2011-09-02T18:53:00.000-10:00

The Wedge Sept. 1-2 2011 from Robbie Crawford on Vimeo.

My friend Robbie pieced together an edit from the recent swell that slapped the California coast. Robbie is an ex-professional bodyboarder gone web and graphic designer. He is one of the most mellow, good spirited people I know. Not to mention, he is a waterman with plenty of creativity.

If you're interested in checking out his work, check out his website: robbiecrawford.com.

Mushroom Jazz.

2011-08-27T12:31:00.003-10:00

Lately I've been rocking out to Mushroom Jazz by Mark Farina. He's put out a handful of volumes, and I dig each one of them. If you're into house, hip hop, and mostly instrumental stuff, etc ... it's for you. Track 2 from Mushroom Jazz: Volume I, is Blue Boy-"Remember Me". Below is the original music video from Blue Boy. It's kind of a weird video.

Noria Podcast - Episode 3.

2011-08-26T09:18:00.004-10:00

The Noria Film PODCAST EP/3 from The Noria Film on Vimeo.

My friends Cristobal Sciaraffia and Igor Sanchez recently released the latest podcast - Episode 3 - from Noria Film. Cristobal is from northern Chile, specifically a town called Iquique. Iquique is one of the biggest hot beds for bodyboarders in all latin America, particularly because the spots are far more suited for riding a bodyboard and they have probably one of the most consistent stretches of coastline, in terms of swell, in the world. Furthermore, Cristobal himself is very gifted when it comes to video editing. I wouldn't be surprised if he were picked up by some large company or the film industry in the future. I also wouldn't be surprised if he turned it down because he does have a great life down in Iquique with his family and surf.

23.

2011-08-25T15:07:00.007-10:00

The other day I weighed myself and realized I've gained quite a few kilos. 23 lbs above my optimal weight, to be exact. I'm certain that it's due to my utter lack of concern for the type of food and portions I've been eating. So I've committed to shaving all 23lbs off by the beginning of September. It includes lifting weights at the weight room at KHS, running (sprints and long distance), bodyboarding, and, most importantly, eating the right foods in smaller portions.

I've committed to not eating the following foods:

-White bread (which includes pizza doe ... ahhhhh man!)
-White rice (no moa plate lunch)
-Mayonnaise (no moa mac salads)
-Cheese (probably my favorite thing in the world)
-All forms of fried foods (not a big deal)
-Excessive sugar (I don't drink soda anyways)

Instead of the listed foods I'm leaning to more raw fruits, vegetables, and proteins.

I know all of this seems a little superficial. One's physical appearance can be awfully vain, but one's health is supposed to transcend vanity. For me, feeling healthy means actually being in good physical shape. Being fresh. Looking good. Having the physical ability to stretch and accomplish that which we desire. Not to mention, our physical health influences our spiritual health.
In short, we don't exist to be held back by our body, especially when we are in a situation where we have wiggle room to determine it. So to the 23lbs ... adios!

Micah McMullin - Da Hammah by NO.6.

2011-08-23T09:33:00.000-10:00

Micah McMullin, a.k.a. "Da Hammah," is bringin' it back to da roots with his Signature Model from No. 6, which is now out in stores! You can get his boards in 43 and 41 1/2 at these locals shops: T&C, HIC, and Local Motion. If you're on Maui, then you can get it at the Foam Co., on Kauai at Nukumoi, and on the Big Island at Miller's Surf.

Micah is one of my good friends and Hawaii's premiere dk hitters. So if you're looking for a fresh board with guaranteed performance, consider "Da Hammah!"

Agit/Turbo Zicatela Pro - Jeff Hubbard.

2011-08-13T17:58:00.015-10:00

Jeff Hubbard (p) Ray Collins

Jeff "Hubb" Hubbard, Kauai, just won the Zicatela Pro in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico. In the final against Ryan Hardy, Hubb did two monsterous airs to take the win: A massive reverse air (which he didn't land) and just as huge of an invert (which he stuck). With this win at Zicatela, Hubb slid ahead of 6x world champion Guilherme Tamega to lead the world tour rankings.

Guilherme Tamega (p) Ray Collins

Ryan Hardy (p) Ray Collins

Next stop, Portugal.

WITHINcast Episode 1.

2011-08-07T08:46:00.001-10:00

WITHINcast Episode 1 from LINKtv on Vimeo.
The newest latest from Within - a podcast featuring Tahitian bodyboarders owning it at home. It's always nice to see fellow polynesians holding it down on the boogie. Check it out! It'll blow your mind!

BOOGIE NATION 9.

2011-08-05T14:51:00.038-10:00

The highly anticipated BN9 was finally released on vimeo a couple hours ago. They had it finished and sitting on their hard drive since 2008. All things considered, it's kind of crazy to finally see it in full length and for free on the web.

Just like the first one, BN9 is fresh and different. Pretty much all Hawaii bodyboarders. Some of the music is... custom made and kind of bizarre, but what else could you expect from these guys? I was stoked to finally see someone use that track from Roots, "Don't Say Nuthin." Fits perfect with Bud's section.

Anyways, I'm not going to ramble on. Just check it out for yourself!

Pounders Roundup - Bodyboard Meet.

2011-08-01T12:45:00.071-10:00

Happy Zurowski (p) Akemi Zurowski

The first ever Pounders Roundup Bodyboard Meet at Laie Beach Park was recently held the last Saturday of the month, July 30th. Pounders Roundup is an annual bodyboard meet held at Laie Beach Park, aka Pounders, designed to promote the ocean as a healthy, positive outlet for the youth and adult members of the Ko'olauloa communities.

After experiencing Friday's decrease in wind and swell, plus the fact it was raining all day, it was a miracle to see that the surf kicked up for the meet on Saturday. Not to mention, the sun was out all day and there wasn't even one drop of rain to account for. Finally, summer acting like summer.

The event got under way a little past 9AM and stretched right until the last glimmer of sunlight. The turn out was far more than anyone could have anticipated. There were more than fifty contestants entering the eight divisions: Youth (10-14 years), Juniors (15-17 years), Mens (18+), Dropknee, Female, Launch, Standup Bodyboard, and Surf Expression Session. At any given time there were more than three hundred to four hundred spectators populating the park and water outside of the contest boundaries. It was, by all accounts, the most people that members of the community have ever seen at Pounders.

The kids and teenagers hit the water first, Youth and Junior divisions. It was pretty exciting to see the little kids in Youth charging and getting washed up by the sets. In the end, Shaydon Wolfe of Waimanalo took the victory. As for the Juniors, it was Jon Oba.

Next up was the Standup Surf Expression Session, put on by Raynor Surfboards, went at it. Of course, surfing Pounders is a trick in and of itself, but with local knowledge Makamae Desoto of Hau'ula showed everyone how it was done. Then Standup Bodyboard duked it out. The Standup Bodyboard division showcased two female standup bodyboarders, Momi Thompson and Kawena Garcia, who were more than impressive. They could give anyone, surf or bodyboard, a run for their money. When push came to shove, though, local boy Dane Orosco of Hau'ula prevailed.

The Female division and Dropknee heats then proceeded to the shoreline. With a few world class Brazilian rippers occupying the Female division alongside a few other Oahu locals, including local girl Jen Noho'pi'i, the competition was fierce. When the concluding horn sounded, Claudia Ferrari won against the small contingent competitors. Dropknee, one of the largest divisions of the day, was packed with local rippers as well as those from all over the island. Eventually, it was Cole Hanson of Kaneohe that led the pack to take the win.

Launch and Mens then rounded off the day. The purpose of the Launch division is too hit the biggest aerial maneuver. Considering the prevalent side wash at Pounders, contestants were more than able to test their acrobatics. Kahuku local Zach Delacruz trotted his way through each division to the final but was taken out by an explosive Happy Zurowski of Waialua. As for the Mens, the league of contestants were eventually trodden down by Waianae's Sterling Spencer. Undoubtedly, he was thrilled to have made his drive from the west side worth every penny.

Special thanks to the sponsors and Ko'olauloa community for making Pounders Roundup happen. Until next summer!

Asa Aquino.

Zach Delacruz (p) Kris Gellert

Yours truly (p) Maurice Aubuchon

Da boys.

KBB (p) Kris Gellert

For more photographs, check out Pounders Roundup on Facebook: facebook.com/poundersroundup

One week to go.

2011-07-23T09:00:00.001-10:00

Photo: Morgan Halas

We officially have one week before Pounders Roundup Bodyboard Meet on Saturday, July 30th. The meet will go from 9AM until 5PM (or until we finish). If you plan on entering, please get your entry forms and fees in before Monday, July 25th, to guarantee a spot to compete and t-shirt.

Besides that please pray for waves! If you don't pray, wish really hard. If you don't wish then pretend like you're wishing for waves.

Aloha,

Evan Fa

Surge v3.0 - Update.

2011-07-19T12:23:00.001-10:00

All right, for you folks that have been wondering when we will release the third version of Surge Magazine, I assure you that it's right around the corner. We have been working on a fresh website that will not only give us the capacity to house any and all of the newest latest in bodyboarding news from around the globe but will allow us to narrow the gap on these long breaks between magazines. Of course, we have quite a few other cards up our sleeve that we will drop on you when the time is right.

As for this third version of Surge Magazine, many of you have already heard that it's an all Hawaii issue. I know that when we released news about this months ago there were some complaints about dedicating an entire issue to Hawaii, but as I've given it some thought I'd like to point out that it's not all that unprecedented. Hawaii, love it or not, is the epicenter of our sport. It makes or breaks careers in bodyboarding. Of course, the issue will not solely be of Hawaiian riders but rather the many bodyboarders that stood out this past season. Whether those riders were Australian, Canarian, French, Californian, Chilean, or, in fact, Hawaiian, is the point.

I can assure you that the photos and written content are only the best of the best. That's what we are dedicated to here at Surge. It's not about choosing favorites but rather sticking to the highest quality media that we have within our grasp. We love bodyboarding, we LIVE BODYBOARDING.

Pounders Roundup Beach Cleanup.

2011-07-17T09:23:00.044-10:00

Yesterday we held the Pounders Roundup Beach Cleanup at Laie Beach Park. It started promptly at 9AM and people lingered around all day. The turn out was great! There was plenty of drift wood and rubbish laying around the shoreline that we piled up on the grass for the City to scoop up. Since Laie Beach Park is a pretty small area, we began wrapping up around 11AM. Hukilau Cafe provided hundreds of hot dogs and drinks for all those that attended.

Micah McMullin with Kalani Soren, owner of Hukilau Cafe and honorary member of Da Hui.

Joe, Morgan, Micah, Jonny, River wrapping up the hot dogs.

As we all slipped into a hot dog food coma, we pulled out a couple prizes to give away. We gave away a brand new Nomad bodyboard. Instead of doing a raffle, I thought it wise to just throw it into the crowd and have everyone wrestle for it. As it turned out, Jason Smith, the big Mauri, prevailed with the board in hand. No worries to the others anxious to get a board, not only will each winner of the seven divisions receive one but we will be giving away a few boards the day of the comp through the raffle.

Nomad Board give-away.

Asa, Daniel, Braddah Willz, and Travis maxing out.

Quite a few people signed up for the Bodyboard Meet to be held in two weeks on Saturday, July 30th. We still have plenty of openings in all divisions. So either download your entry form/waiver at this link - http://goo.gl/YjATg - and send it in or pick one up at Hukilau Cafe in Laie, Haircut Store in the Laie Shopping Center, or Surfin' Tacos in the Hau'ula Shopping Center. You may turn in the form and fee(s) at Hukilau Cafe as well.

Special THANKS to all the sponsors making this event happen! RIP ELI!

To check out more photos from the Beach Cleanup, add us at facebook.com/poundersroundup.

I miss you N.S.

2011-07-06T00:03:00.002-10:00

As I was browsing through my hard drive I came across this shot I've never shown anyone. Maurice Aubuchon, my good friend and Photo Editor of Surge, took this some day at Pipe that I cannot really remember last winter. I realize it's an average photo, but mainly it has me day dreaming about the possibilities this up and coming season. Am I really going to move to Maui? Kind of tough when you have a Pipe addiction.

I manipulated the photo quite a bit because I felt like it. Why not? It's America.

Pounders Roundup - Official Poster & Press.

2011-07-01T08:52:00.020-10:00

Above is the Official Poster for Pounders Roundup, the event I'm organizing. Special Mahalo Rob Kanamu, from Kahuku, who designed the poster for the event. If you have any inquiries about how Rob may help you with any of your graphic designing needs, please shoot me an email and I can put you in touch with him.

Below is press about this year's Pounders Roundup:

Pounders Roundup is an annual bodyboard event held each summer at Laie Beach Park (Pounders), Laie, Hawaii, designed to promote the ocean as a healthy, positive outlet for the youth and adult members of the Ko'olauloa communities on the east side of the island of Oahu, Hawaii. This year's headline sponsors are Hukilau Cafe, Made in Laie, and Surge Bodyboarding. Hukilau Cafe is located on Wahinepe'e Street in Laie and was featured in both Man vs. Food and 50 First Dates. Made in Laie is a silk screening and embroidery company also located in the town of Laie. Surge Bodyboarding in an online media company dedicated to the progression of the sport of bodyboarding.

This year's roundup is two fold:

Beach Cleanup - Saturday, July 16th, from 9AM to 12PM
Cost: Free
Sponsor: Hukilau Cafe
Hukilau Cafe is serving more hot dogs and drinks than your heart can handle. Get there early, grab your wrist band, and help clean up the beloved Laie Beach Park (Pounders). There will be a meet the pros, product give-away, and bodyboard clinic held by a handful Hawaii's top professional bodyboarders from 12:30PM to 2PM. Be there or you'll miss out. Lastly, this will be a good time for participants in the bodyboard meet on Saturday, July 30th, to pay all entry fees and guarantee a slot in the event.

Bodyboard Meet - Saturday, July 30th, from 9AM to 5PM.
Cost: $15 includes shirt, raffle ticket, and entry into one division. $10 for each additional division. Entry forms due by Monday, July 25th.
Download entry form here: http://goo.gl/YjATg
Sponsors: Hukilau Cafe, Surge Bodyboarding, Custom X, NO.6, Kahuku Bodyboarders, Surfin Tacos, Science, Kahuku Grill, Hair Cut Store, Hinano, Nomad, Cartel Board Co., Viper Fins, Jon Mozo Foundation, and Flip Mode.

Come out compete against some of Oahu's best in one of seven ability divisions:

- Youth (10-14 years)
- Juniors (15-17 years)
- Mens (18 years & older)
- Drop Knee (scored on dk only)
- Female
- Launch (scored on biggest air)
- Standup (no hard boards, no skegs)

The winner of each division will receive a brand new bodyboard and top four in each division will receive prizes from clothes, fins, leashes, dvds, gift certificates, etc. Whether or not you enter the Pounders Roundup, invite your family and friends to come out and watch the contestants go at it and enjoy a day at the beach.

California Love.

2011-06-21T17:00:00.004-10:00

I flew out to the Golden State a couple days before the West Side Maui contingent - Wadeo, Bryce, and Kaleo. Flying into Cali after being locked on a couple islands for a year is always refreshing. Seeing the lights blanketing the inner city and suburbs as we approached LAX gives a sense of life. LA never sleeps. It's faster paced than the HI, which is not necessarily a bad thing. It's good to see both sides to re-evaluate one's priorities.

The second morning I was in Cali I went to meet up with Thomas Pagano at an LA County spot, but the truck I was driving almost overheated. I step out of the truck on the 105 at five something AM and I can feel the numbness of the morning air and wind from the semi-trucks whizzing by me. I wait for the engine to cool down, fill up the radiator reserve full of water and make my way back to grab another car. Unfortunately, I don't make it over there to surf with Tom but next time my man.

Instead I trek it to The Wedge. The surf is pretty awful. No one besides the local skimmers are testing it. I jump in only to be greeted by freezing water. Holy crap! It's cold! Are you serious? I thought it was summer. I can only take so much of it and catch a few waves and call it a morning.

I meet up with Pez at the Canon Store, where we both get our sensors cleaned. We hit up some sushi, grab an Attica suit that they had waiting for me at Falcon's Board Shop in Encinitas, and buy a few camera goods. By this time, blackball is coming down and the swell is in on the rise at Wedge, so we venture back down to the Balboa Peninsula.

Wedge looks fun. As a matter of fact, I got a few ramps. A couple little pop revos off the side wash, some gaping barrels, and plenty of side wash to negotiate. I run into plenty of familiar faces down there. Brandon Clark, Matt Vaughn, Adam Dumas, Briggs Viloria, Joe Suzuki, Yuji, Alex, and the list goes on. Brandon does what he does best and regulates an idiot surfer. On a side note, the actual boys at Wedge are a tight knit crew of riders. They are some of coolest, down to earth people, bodyboarders or surfers; which is kind of ironic because Newport is pretty much at the epicenter of that annoying OC surfer-bro-bra-dude movement.

Hectic (p) Ross Fletcher

Wadeo and the boys make it down from their recent arrival at LAX and push their way into some hefty ones. All the while, Pez is snapping off frames. (By the way, where are the pictures Pez?) Wade, Bryce, and Kaleo, mad-handle lefts, which is not typical of every Maui bodyboarder. Travis gets some mean ones, too. You can tell he is in his zone out at Wedge. They almost freeze to death as well, then we throw in the towel.

We retire at the Marriot Newport Coast Villas. The place is baller. It's a time share, but since Wade and Kaleo's mom work for Marriot we lock it down. The place is two bedroom, two bathroom, living room, jacuzzi, full kitchen, tv with dvd player. Wow! Nothing like a bunch of poor bodyboarders living large.

We hit up The Wedge cold and early. The water is even colder than the night before... go figure. Everyone catches a couple. I unintentionally burn one of the boys out there. My bad braddah. There are some good ones out there, but you have to really pick and choose to get a memorable one. I snuck out of a couple waves, but that was it.

Bryce Jacinto into a Wedge corner bowl.

The drop (p) Bob Okvist

After our session we talk story with Chris and some others. We check some spots in Laguna but end up at Salt Creek. Creek looks so fun, but in reality ends up being a poop shoot. It's an illusion. It's crowded. Does anyone go to work?

The next morning we shine Wedge and go straight to Creek. It's so fun. Small... like chest to head high on the sets, but it's doubling up and has some corners to ramp and stuff. It's kind of crowded, but most of the people out there are novice so it's pretty much free game to catch everything you want. I remember Bryce making this front side dk barrel. I don't know how he made it, but it was pretty mental. Wade was sticking to the rights that would dredge onto what seemed like shallow sand bar.

The USBA comp is on at Huntington Beach Pier. Huntington Pier is pretty dog-doodoo as far as waves go. We spock it out a couple mornings, pass out some Surge stickers, talk story with some friends, and dig out early. Wade and I leave Bryce and Kaleo there to compete. We're pretty over the whole slop spin to win adventures.

After we pick up the boys from the contest, we head over to Richard and Kari Pata's fale for a Surge gathering. A lot of the traveling and local Cali bodyboarders are in attendance. We all get our chance to see the quadruplets while eating some kalbi ribs. It was a good time talking story with all the boys, especially Seal Beach and former Alternative Surf owner Ron Ziebell. Ron told us about when they had first visited Puerto and even their discovery of Punta Colorada.

Mahalo nui loa to Richard and Kari for taking care of all of us! You folks are the epitome of the aloha spirit.

Talking story in the kitchen.

The crew.

A day or so later, I think, we head over to Strands, which is this little sidewash wedge the bay south of Salt Creek. It looks okay. We all go out anyways. It's pretty fun after all.

The standup surfers there, though, are the biggest joke. It's almost incomprehensible how kooky they are. They think they are Kelly Slater but have the skills of Rick Kane on the North Shore fresh off the plane from Arizona. Naturally, they have some superiority complex over bodyboarders, which gets under my skin. They fall on the most simple of waves. I mean... despite the fact that Strands has the sidewash, it's not a difficult or even heavy wave by any means.

As a matter of fact, I over heard two of the surfers talking about why they weren't making their waves. Mind you, it's head high at most out there. One of them complains, "Yeah, I slid out on that wave because this tail on the board does that sometimes." The other one responds, "Bro, I'm so under-gunned out here today." What! Are you two serious? Slide out on a surf board? That's why you have skegs. Under-gunned? It's only head high on the set of the day my friend. Flat out, these types of people give both OC and surfing a bad name.

We hog a lot of the waves anyways. Why not? They're all going to slide out and fall because of the "tail" on their boards and being "under-gunned." Wade blasts a revo air off the side wash into the wave. I see Bryce bang some backflips. Travis captures some barrels. Kaleo hits a fresh ARS right in front of me.

The boys head off to Magic Mountain, not before we grind the best breakfast burritos in the world from Grand Burger. They enjoy their day up in Valencia, riding who knows what they have there now while I unwind at the house and get some business done.

The following morning we hit up Strands. It's their last session before their flight that afternoon. Wade stays on the beach to watch. It's glassy, a few waves are lining up. Bryce completely murders it. He wins the award for the session, no doubt.

As they depart, I couldn't help but rethink the whole trip to this point. Man, we've been on the move. I still have a week left in Cali. I surf Wedge one more time with Robert Bonds and Cory Simons. It's actually not very good at all. Somehow the last forty five mintues before dark produce some of the best waves I got all trip. I made a wave that baffles me. I pulled in pretty deep, the wave flared, the backwash hit and slung me right out onto the sand.

After that session, Rob, Cory, and I get some two dollar tacos and head to this get together. We run into some college friends like Austin Porter, Matt Newbold, Andrew Pierce, and so on. It was nice to meet up with them.

I spend the rest of the time with my famili. My mom and I visit Lindsay's mother, grandparents, and George in Redondo Beach. We visit Blake and Megan for Addie's pre-school graduation in Ventura. Roger completes twenty four years, so we grind all you can eat sushi. We eat El Tepeyac in East Los, which is hands down my favorite food stop in the world. I buy some blue low top Chucks. I love my life. I love the 10 or so pounds I tack on.

My famili is working on skipping out of LA and finally getting back to Hawaii. They're aiming towards moving to the west side of Maui. I'm sure I have a lot to do with that because I've fallen in love with that side of the island. Not just because of the surf, but because it's beautiful. It really puts the no ka oi into Maui.

Back home to Oahu. Ofa lahi atu famili!

Second Episode of LinkTV.

2011-06-06T22:40:00.002-10:00

LINKtv episode 2 from LINKtv on Vimeo.

Here is the second podcast from linkTV. Canarians kill it!

Adieu Kahuku.

2011-06-01T10:00:00.004-10:00

After a year with my IET students at Kahuku High and Intermediate, the fourth and final quarter finally came to end. While I was undoubtedly breathing relief and joy that it was over, I couldn't help but feel nostalgic about the experience. Yes, of course, there were days when I felt like the kids were going to literally drive me completely insane. On the flip side, I worked with some of the coolest people, teachers, staff, janitors, etc, on earth. Two of which are Julien Tyrell and David Jay. We became good friends. I will admit that the most difficult part of turning down the job for next school year was the fact that I won't be able to talk story and learn from Julien and Dave everyday. I'll miss the students, too. Well, some of them. Haha!

For those interested in the teaching profession, it is definitely rewarding. You live for those moments when a student, group of students, or the whole class, really grab onto what you're saying and you can see it sink into their minds. Those were such sacred moments. Of course, you have to sift through those periods and even whole days when the students are flat out annoying, but I cannot deny that this past year was fun. Everyday I was excited to head to Kahuku to interact with the kids.

So I just want to say that I will miss you Kahuku. Red Raiders 4 Life. And Let the Kids Play.

Period 2 Bridge Project.

Parting ways with Z1A.

It's been real. It's been fun. It's been real fun.

2011-05-10T10:00:00.023-10:00

The past few days have had some pretty light winds combined with some swell to fill into the bay. A couple of the boys and I traded off with camera to get capture some small kine memories. Mind you, it's nothing too out of this world, but it was a he** of a lot of fun. Isn't that what life is about anyways?

Shaping up for Morgan (p) Evan Fa

Chase doing his thing (p) Evan Fa

Pop goes the weasel (p) Chase Johnson

Flip phone (p) Chase Johnson

Keiki Just Want to Have Fuh-un.

2011-04-07T10:19:00.002-10:00

Wade-O and Bryce have been in town. Luckily they timed it with two swells poking their heads over the two day time period. We spent Monday, which I took off work, surfing some unseasonable Pipeline after Chase and I scored this one spot by ourselves for three hours. Bryce was definitely holding his own during his first ever surfs out North.

The crowds were in full effect for some reason. Well, not the actual amount of people in the water as much as everyone's bad attitudes. There are just too many stand up surfers lingering. I don't understand what they do all day, especially the sub-par that obviously aren't collecting a paycheck from corporate surf companies. Sometimes I feel like no one works up at Sunset. Maybe they are all just spoiled brats living under their parents' wings; I get the feeling they are just moochers. All things considered, I try not to let that stuff bother me.

Tuesday, the next day, I headed to work while Wade and Bryce scored some epic, uncrowded Pipe. Wade set me some pictures on my phone to egg on my jealousy. After work I met up with the boys at Ehukai Beach Park, they were drained of all energy and petrified to the sand. Meanwhile, Chase was out in front of us at Gums dropping into some sandbar ledges with no one else around. The swell had definitely taken a turn towards the North but was definitely pulsing pretty hard. Somehow, after quite a bit of convincing, I managed to peal the boys off the sand to my truck, where we proceeded over to Keiki. Despite the fact that Wade had been telling me he wanted to surf Keiki for a long time, he seemed too worn out to appreciate the opportunity.

As we waked up to Keiki, it looked dismal because of the tide. I assured them that it would improve in the next hour or so. We then checked out OTW for a half hour. I snapped a few shots of Nakana dropping into some bombs out there.

We then headed back to Keiki, where Bryce jumped in first. I decided to shoot for a while. After watching Bryce snag a few fun ones, Wade and Morgan made their way in. Chase joined them soon after. The next hour or so was pretty epic. The lighting was fantastic, and all of them were getting some hefty shorebreak ledges. The size bumped up a bit as well. There were some four footers, occasionally a bigger one, rolling through.

Little by little everyone began throwing in the towel. Wait! I still hadn't even gotten wet yet. I traded my camera off to Morgan, grabbed my gear and hopped in. Unfortunately, the clouds had begun shadowing the sun by this point. I tried to get Wade and Bryce to stay out, but they were obviously exhausted and Bryce wanted to pick up a pair of fins in town before closing.

The next hour was wave after wave, drop after drop, some intense Keiki. I was out there with the Colle brothers. With Morgan stationed by the rocks, I was dedicated to the rights. The things you will do if a camera is pointed at you are interesting. After taking some really nice ones, some ugly ones, and everything in between, I took the drop on one that ended up compressing extremely hard and spitting its guts. For a second I thought I was going to make it but, of course, I didn't. The shot turned out insane. One of the better shots I have had taken of me in a long time.

In all, the past two days were great. I love surfing with friends. Getting shots is just icing on the cake. Until next time.

Bryce Jacinto on a small Pipe drainer. (p) Wade Saunders

Bryce Jacinto with an evening revo off the top (p) Wade Saunders

Morgan Halas (p) Evan Fa

Wade Saunders with a crystal clean one. (p) Evan Fa

Chase Johnson doing what he does best ... charging. (p) Evan Fa

A little air drop. (p) Morgan Halas

One of the thickies I caught when everyone left. (p) Morgan Halas

Adios amigos. (p) Morgan Halas

Bodyboarding in Canada.

2011-03-30T10:44:00.000-10:00

I was rapping with Vijay Maharaj, South Africa, in the water yesterday. A while back I remember him mentioning that he had been living in Canada the past couple years, so I asked him the obvious question: How's the surf up there? Needless to say, Vijay began elaborating on some of the latest surf discoveries he and his friend from South Africa, Greg Vorster, have been making. The unpredictable weather conditions that come with exploring there: drastic fifteen foot tidal changes, winds, raw swell energy, etc. The all too treacherous hikes down to the ocean from the main road, bears, cougars ... you name it.

He sent me this link to the Gotsurf.ca site that dedicated a piece to them and the rise of Canadian bodyboarding. It's pretty inspiring to say the least, so give it a look.

Bodyboarding in Canada !?! from GotSurf.ca on Vimeo.

LINKtv - Canary Islands.

2011-03-28T17:30:00.000-10:00

Hola a todos! Abajo esta el primer podcast por LINKtv. El nivel de bodyboard en las canarias es increible. Mira el video y va a estar evidente que las canarias tendra un campion mundial en el futuro.

LINK es una empresa en las islas Canarias. Su pagina de web: linkbodyboards.com

Spring Break.

2011-03-22T15:25:00.027-10:00

This past spring break was definitely packed to the brim with adventure. I've been cruising with my little brother, Roger, for the past two weeks. We've been catching a bit of the late North Shore season action, venturing the West Side, and playing in the tradeswell swept the spot. Wade-O has made to trips over from Maui in the past two weeks as well. Lindsay even had a few days off to play.

Below is a slew of action shots from the week:

Roger catching one.

Wade-O on an insider at Pipe.

Morgan gripping one at Pipe.

Yours truly one morning at Pipe.

Little afternoon backwash.

Custom X Advertisement.

2011-03-20T22:09:00.000-10:00

I just wanted to share the Custom X Accessories advertisement I'm featured in the last issue of Surge v2.0. Maurice Aubuchon snapped this shot at Pipe during that opening Pipe swell last November. It was a perfect, frighteningly easy day at Pipe. This one my only decent wave that morning. It spit in good fashion. Afterwards, I showered off and headed straight to Keiki to take lickings.

Maui Boogie + Japan Earthquake + Tsunami.

2011-03-13T08:00:00.002-10:00

With Spring Break at Kahuku in full effect, I'm off work and down to boogie. Before Roger, my little but brother that towers over me, came to cruise, Chase and I flew to Maui in order surf with Wade-O, Koops, Nahiku, Bryce, Joel, Travis, and the boys. There was a medium sized swell seeping through the channel. Not quite big enough for Honolua but definitely prime for another low key spot.

Being that this is the same place that rattled me so bad that I ended up on bed rest, pissing in bottles and popping painkillers that far from ousted the pain, I was undoubtedly eager to finally conquer my fears and tame the vampire that stole my blood and damaged my pride. Needless to say, it was on. After a few hesitant drops and punting off some rather sketchy ramps into dry reef on the inside, alas, my confidence grew steadily during each session. Of course, it was most encouraging to see the boys at work, tearing the place to pieces.

After a hard day of surfing, we were at the grocery store when we caught word that Japan had just experienced an 8.8 level earthquake. Along with that Hawaii was under Tsunami watch. After arriving back at Wade's house, we flipped on the news to the tragedy that struck the Japanese coastline. Whole cities had been devastated, people had been swept away with their homes, cars, and belongings. It was surreal. A fathom to watch ... even unbelievable. It had happened, though.

Because Wade's house sits on top of the Kapalua golf course, we were more than safe from any potential tsunami that might light up the coast. Of course, back on Oahu I live maybe fifty yards from the ocean at pretty much sea level. My belongings, truck, and anything else were in jeopardy. Luckily for me, I have a great girlfriend, Lindsay, and friends that look after me and my stuff.

The next morning, as idiotic as it may seem, we all ventured down to the ocean to surf. You'd think a tsunami would deter such a group from wanting to catch waves, but I suppose it takes more than that to stop wave junkies. The warnings had been lifted hours before, so we're not really that dumb. When we sat on the beach, we began noticing that the water level was undergoing some radical changes before our eyes. I even recall Wade commenting "I've never seen those rocks exposed in my entire life" at one point. Hmmm ... to paddle out or not? Let's go!

Yeah, well, that session was sketchy. The ocean was doing some awfully strange things. Feeling overly vulnerable to Mother Nature, Wade and I were definitely on the apprehensive side when it came to catching waves. Meanwhile, Chase was hyping like it was the best thing that had ever happened to him. Since Wade and I didn't share his enthusiasm, we threw in the towel early and relied on Maui Tacos to fill the void.

We ended scoring a few more classic sessions before boarding our Kapalua flight to Honolulu Saturday at noon. Overall, the trip was awesome! Empty surf with friends. What more can a person ask for?

Surge V2.0 / The cat is out of the hat so check it out!

2011-03-09T23:24:00.002-10:00

Open publication - Free publishing - More action sports

Yesterday we released the second issue of Surge. It's a hefty 400 pages of serious boogie action. Go to www.surgebodyboarding.com to check out the issue!

Below is my editor's piece entitled "Professional Bodyboarding is Dead."

Lunar Podcast 0.9 - In the Desert.

2011-02-21T19:15:00.001-10:00

Robert Isambert, maker of the Ring of Fire series, just released his ninth Lunar Podcast featuring adventures in the Mexican desert.

Lunar 0.9 - In the Desert from Robert Isambert on Vimeo.

Surge Version 2.0 Cover.

2011-02-16T11:31:00.003-10:00

This might be old news to some, but we just released the cover for Surge v2.0. The cover is an invert shot of Jared Houston taken by Maurice Aubuchon, Photo Editor, on the North Shore. The cover was chosen for its unique qualities: First, the invert of Jared is textbook. Second, the angle in which the shot was taken. Third, the shadows cast on the water as the sun filters through the mountains and trees. The cover makes you take a second or third take to figure out what exactly is going on. That's exactly what we were going for this issue. So without further ado, the cover ...

Surge 2.0 Cover / Rider Jared Houston / Photo Maurice Aubuchon

P.S. Feel free to copy the cover to your desktop to share with people on Facebook, Twitter, whatever.

Australia Day at Keiki.

2011-02-06T21:18:00.001-10:00

Showed up after work to Keikis. It was pretty pristine and inviting. The Aussies and Safas were partying on the beach and in the water in celebration of Australia Day. What's that? (I asked them and they told me the best comparison to America is Independence Day.) I jumped in the water to play. I linked up with Sacha "Spex" Specker for a couple and then worked my way down the beach where I then linked up with Clark Little on a handful. Here are a handful of images from the day. Mahalos to everyone! Cheers!

(p) Sacha Specker

Above 3 photos by Clark Little

Chase Johnson (p) Clark Little

Epic Meal Time.

2011-02-01T01:15:00.002-10:00

Of course, none of us can deny the fact that it's easy to get sucked into Youtube. Come on, there's some hilarious stuff on there. You know, "Hide your kids, hide your wife" kine stuff. Just the other evening we came across Epic Meal Time. Before I even attempt to explain, I must first mention that I love food/cooking shows. In high school I thought Emeril Lagasse was the man. Epic Meal Time is a cooking show of outrageous proportions ... or should I say portions? Give it a go.

No Ka Oi.

2011-01-23T15:06:00.012-10:00

With hype about a possible Eddie in full effect, a few of us opted for an alternative. We booked our tickets to leave Oahu while the masses desperately flooded the North Shore in hopes of an Eddie. While thirty foot waves at Waimea doesn’t really appeal to me as a bodyboarder, it is a treat for the most reputed contest to take place ten minutes from home. Nonetheless, we were fixed on tasting some outer island action. And as fortune had it, it was well worth it.
          Now, I’m not going to even hint on where we put in multiple sessions from sunrise to sundown. I respect the boys over there too much to ruin such a gem. I will say that we undoubtedly scored … and scored hard. It wasn’t necessarily big surf, but what lacked in size was made up for with quality and crowds (or lack of). As a matter of fact, we spent the majority of the trip surfing without anyone whatsoever.
           We did make a couple cameo appearances at The Bay. And, honestly, I feel we couldn’t have timed the short sessions any better with the crowds. The crowds were considerably thinner than we’d seen in the mornings, so we were consequently able to pick off more waves. We have some photos documenting a few waves here and there from both sessions.
           All this being said, the trip was a well needed relief from the hustle of Oahu. Maui no ka oi!

Chase Johnson pulling in a bowl at the Cave. (p) Morgan Halas

Chase Johnson's dk barrel to snap. (p) Morgan Halas

Wade Saunders chopping it up. (p) Morgan Halas

Wade Saunders with a Micronesian barrel. (p) Chase Johnson

Wade Saunders with the reverse Wade-O-Bell. (p) Chase Johnson

Morgan Halas on his first official "surf trip." He handled his own. (p) Chase Johnson

Me pulling into one at The Cave. (p) Morgan Halas

Throwing a little kid cutty. (p) Morgan Halas

Coming down from an invert. (p) Morgan Halas

A little evening bunny hop. (p) Chase Johnson

Burning some guy. (p) Chase Johnson

Waimea Shorey.

2011-01-18T18:05:00.013-10:00

Here's a little sequence Lindsay took of me in some small Waimea shorey this Martin Luther King, Jr. Holiday:

Kava for Keiki.

2011-01-15T20:00:00.002-10:00

The water has been kava color this whole week because of the hefty rains. But that's rarely enough reason to keep anyone out of the water, especially since we've had a pleasant streak of swell since the holidays. This afternoon we decided to set up shop at Keiki to soak in some rays and pull into some square kava bowls. The sandbar was by no means perfect, but with some patience we all scored some gaping closeouts onto the beach. Meanwhile, my girlfriend Lindsay snapped some shots on shore. Yeah, okay!

Eric Meyers.

Morgan Halas 1.

Morgan Halas 2.

Jesse King.

Mr. Me-goo

Breaking winter.

2010-12-27T22:33:00.001-10:00

I've been soaking up as much water time as possible during this winter break from work at Kahuku High. Lindsay has been out of town, visiting family in Arizona and California, so I've been riding solo most of the time. I realize now that I should have probably should have gone with her this break, but I figured this would be my best time to push my surfing (as selfish as this sounds) since I seldom get to surf in the morning and mid-day anymore. She will be back for New Year's, which is a blessing. We will rock out then.

I've been lucky enough to get some relatively empty, and if not empty then mellow, sessions both at Pipe and OTW. I even surfed about 8-9 hours two days in a row. One early afternoon I scored Pipe on the rise with only other boogies out. I locked into four sick ones in a row. One of them was pretty amazing. Of course, it's at those moments that no one is shooting; but I'll try not to forget.

I've also been able to get some solid sessions here on the east side. Absolutely scoring spots with only a couple people out. Spots that rarely get that good. Let alone uncrowded. Morgan and I surfed some pretty unreal Keiki Corners at Makapu'u Christmas eve. It was howling South Winds and pretty hefty. Definitely a treat.

Well, I have about one more week left before the break ends and a couple more days before la chica comes back. Below are shots that Andrew Rams snapped of me both OTW and Backdoor during one of my marathon sessions.

Recycle This.

2010-12-20T17:00:00.004-10:00

About four months ago I began noticing how many people throw away their recyclables. My housemates were zipping through bottles and soda cans that would all end up in the rubbish. I started plucking a bottle and soda can here and there from the rubbish, creating my own little pile of recyclables by the back door. At one point I made a comment to everyone about recycling. They were obviously aware of it but seemed uninterested about doing anything about it. As a challenge, I told them that I was going to save the money I'd get in exchange for the recyclables and purchase a pair of Chucks. They doubtedly replied, "Yeah, good luck with that."

During the first month, I saved each bottle and soda can laying around the house and tossed in the rubbish. The more time that went by, though, the more recyclables I noticed around me. Hence, the more "fishing" I did for them. My fettish for recycling had transfered from purely in house to any stray bottle or soda can I'd stumble upon. From the bottles laying around my classroom at Kahuku to the soda cans at the beach, I had changed. The stacks by the back door did as well. So did the cash I received for them. Essentially, other people's rubbish had become my treasure, and in December I purchased that fresh pair of Chucks.

What up suckahz!